Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Fred Beckey and Hooman Aprin, 1971
Page Views: 11,574 total · 84/month
Shared By: Limpingcrab DJ on Nov 28, 2012
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The route is mellow, exposed, and just plain fun. If you learn how to sling knobs with one hand it will make your day easier. The crux is probably the first pitch or two.

Start out by climbing the giant chimney/left facing corner and exit to the right when you get the chance. We missed the exit and climbed all the way out of the top. Once you're out of the chimney/corner climb up six awesome pitches on chickenheads and knobs! (Edit: I went back and climbed it again, there is definitely no 5.7 way to exit the initial "chimney" pitches to the right, despite what several older guidebooks say.  You can either climb straight out through the roofs at the top, or go left around the roofs to a nice belay ledge and then move back right above the roof and continue up)

Location Suggest change

Descend along the west side. When it starts to turn around the bottom you will see the chimney. If you get to the detached tower (or the corner right before it) you've gone too far.

Rappel off the north side like every other route. One short rap from the top, and then a long hanging rap to the base. Takes two ropes, and one might get snagged!

Protection Suggest change

Singles from small to 3" and a set of nuts. Lots of runners to sling knobs.  It can probably be done with only nuts and slings, depending on the path you take.

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