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Not Bosched Up
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Mugs Stump, Mark Whitton 1988 |
Page Views: | 671 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | GRK on Jul 7, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A bold, exhilarating route up some fairly solid rock, this one may have you screaming "mommy!" Not Bosched Up is the test-piece moderate of Tower Two. Put up around the dawn of heavy, rap-bolting, the FA certainly kept it real. As committing as it is bare, this line requires a solid head and creative gear placements, expect long run outs and marginal to no protection. I don't know where you draw the line between R and X, but a slight breeze my blow this one more towards the latter.
Route finding is also a crux, so here's some direction: Begin about 5-7 feet right of Radiation Babies on a solid, black slab. Start with a long, strenuous, run out up a small dihedral feature, and aim for a thin, shallow crack. Continue up the weakness and break left of the wall's first roof. Climb up a steep face to a small ledge and rest. Continue up the face using pockets, passing a hidden "Hallelujah" pin and work towards the middle of the upper roof. Its here where you'll find the routes best protection, so use em' if you got them! Skirt left across the slab (crux) and gain the route's final thrutch up a broken dihedral to the tower's top. The rock deteriorates the higher you go, but you'll find best climbing and stone if you continue straight up. Building a belay at the top of the tower is not recommended, set a directional and traverse left to the belay of Social Realism.
Multifaceted, you'll probably spend a good amount of time on this line. With difficult route finding and some questionable rock, Not Bosched Up is a very slow lead, bring a patient belayer and plenty of confidence.
Route finding is also a crux, so here's some direction: Begin about 5-7 feet right of Radiation Babies on a solid, black slab. Start with a long, strenuous, run out up a small dihedral feature, and aim for a thin, shallow crack. Continue up the weakness and break left of the wall's first roof. Climb up a steep face to a small ledge and rest. Continue up the face using pockets, passing a hidden "Hallelujah" pin and work towards the middle of the upper roof. Its here where you'll find the routes best protection, so use em' if you got them! Skirt left across the slab (crux) and gain the route's final thrutch up a broken dihedral to the tower's top. The rock deteriorates the higher you go, but you'll find best climbing and stone if you continue straight up. Building a belay at the top of the tower is not recommended, set a directional and traverse left to the belay of Social Realism.
Multifaceted, you'll probably spend a good amount of time on this line. With difficult route finding and some questionable rock, Not Bosched Up is a very slow lead, bring a patient belayer and plenty of confidence.
Protection
Three pins and a single rack up to 4 inches with stoppers. Bring a large selection of long draws, slings and maybe even a few double runners. The protection at the roof is far right of the climbing, so use two runners or a double runners to reduce drag. The protection on this line is minimum at best and hard to read, use your imagination.
Location
Not Bosched Up is found about 20 feet up Tower 2 on the gulley's right side. Its the first swatch of solid, black rock you come too. The route starts in the left-side weakness just below a shallow dihedral/mini roof feature and is about 5 feet left of the start for From Trilobites to Lycra Tights
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