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Looking for some crag advice in or around yosemite valley

Ellenore Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 75
Hand.jammin wrote:right on, will two 60m ropes get us down in that case? i can borrow one, and whats a good guidebook to pick up???.. i just scheduled a meet up with a guide next week for some anchor building before the trip (dont wanna cut corners or be restricted from some great climbing). thanks for the advice everyone
yep two 60s will do. Yosemite Valley free climbs by Chris McNamara and Super topo is the best. Looks like you have an awesome adventure trip coming up! You guys enjoy! Dont forget to stop by the climbing shop!
Ellenore Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 75
Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

Pro tip: Don't take any advice from Elanor (craghead)

Ellenore Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 75
NorCalNomad wrote:Pro tip: Don't take any advice from Elanor (craghead)
hahahaha....yey grasshopper! so who is the pro? drop Da Name! so did you not pass the lead belay test either?
Angie C · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 55
NorCalNomad wrote:Not comfortable setting a gear anchor but you feel comfortable climbing above single pieces.... Dude just take one day to practice anchors. If you don't feel comfortable setting gear anchors honestly you aren't ready to lead in Yosemite.
+1

If you do not feel comfortable making an anchor, you should not feel that comfortable placing gear either. I'd strongly recommend taking an anchor lesson with the Yosemite Rock Climbing School/Guides yosemitepark.com/rock-climb… Also, they could guide you guys up something and help teach you more about placing pro and building anchors.

Yosemite is no-joke. Be safe and err on the side of caution. If you don't do your own anchors, or don't feel comfortable, seriously consider hiring someone to help you bridge the gap.
Angie C · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 55
Hand.jammin wrote:alright cool thanks crag head, will a 60m rope get us back to the bottom on a rappel?? and yes as wild as it sounds i feel confident climbing above single pieces ( have taken falls confidently on to my gear) but have no belay anchor building experience or anyone to learn from, ive read john longs book in and out and know what to do just want to go with someone to check my work before i hang mine and her life on it, dont know if this makes any sense (could it be john long psyches you out so bad in his book Im just questioning my self? cuz i can lay bomber pieces and can rig a sliding x/equallete/cordellete just fine) Thanks for the help everyone much appreciated
Do NOT rappel Munginella, for god's sake. Please do the walk off. It's so much safer than a rappel would be. Also, I think there MIGHT be only one station with bolts (check supertopo). The rest is all trad anchors (it might all be trad anchors). Please buy supertopo. It will cover the route, anchor stations and the descent.

Also, don't do any of these routes if you are not 100% comfortable building an anchor. I do not understand why people are telling you to climb this route if you do not feel comfortable building trad anchors.

Also, you should not be taking falls on your gear. Falling on a sport bolt is one thing every now and then, but trad gear is another. People should NOT lead trad when they might fall. Especially someone who is not confident building anchors yet (-read, you are not 100% with gear placements). Just because Chris Sharma did it in a sick video, doesn't mean that's what everyone else should do.

If you want to practice easy trad and building anchors, maybe check out swan slab for the day. I still think you should hire a guide to lead you up a route and help you practice anchor building.

Please make safe decisions. It's not just your life, but your girlfriend's life too.
BSheriden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
Turd Ferguson! wrote: BWAHAHA! I love that you actually take Elanor seriously and let her get you worked up!
A five word reply is not getting worked up.... The diatribes you go on in response to my posts IS getting worked up? Pull your panties outta yer butt bro :)
BSheriden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
Angie C wrote: Also, you should not be taking falls on your gear. Falling on a sport bolt is one thing every now and then, but trad gear is another. People should NOT lead trad when they might fall.
Lol are you serious!??
Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
Angie C wrote: Also, you should not be taking falls on your gear. Falling on a sport bolt is one thing every now and then, but trad gear is another. People should NOT lead trad when they might fall.
Well that's a load of bs if I ever heard some. Sure falling on trad gear is inherently more risky than a bomber bolt. But saying that you shouldn't fall on trad gear... "Hello? Oh hey 1950's. Yeah there is someone here who shares your thoughts on the leader falling on natural pro."
Ellenore Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 75

Angie don't be freakin the dude out.
Man, rap it. It will be fine with two 60s .

BSheriden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
Turd Ferguson! wrote: That's great Sheritard/Schmidthead, now can you wipe that "toothpaste" off the corners of your mouth and get on with your day?
Stalker ;)
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
craghead wrote:Angie don't be freakin the dude out. Man, rap it. It will be fine with two 60s .
Telling someone to rap Munginella is bad advice. Period.
Ellenore Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 75
FrankPS wrote: Telling someone to rap Munginella is bad advice. Period.
no its not. the decent sucks! do it early to avoid crowds and summer heat. ráp it. then go to the waterfall.
Ellenore Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 75
BSheriden wrote: Stalker ;)
fags!
Ellenore Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 75

falling is only ,cool in bouldering or at the gym while doing 'practice falls'. On real rockke its totally overrated. Trad gear will hold your fall. New leaders should climb at comfort level and place frequently (bring lots of slings ). Trad gear does work. Rest plenty if you have to. Focus on summit not 'clean ascent'. Trad climbing is the most rewarding. This route has enough pro for a timid leader like myself. You guys can do it. .....period.

Ellenore Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 75

falling is only cool in bouldering or at the gym while doing 'practice falls'. On real rock its totally overrated. Trad gear will hold your fall. New leaders should climb at comfort level and place frequently (bring lots of slings ). Trad gear does work. Rest plenty if you have to. Focus on summit not 'clean ascent'. Trad climbing is the most rewarding. This route has enough pro for a timid leader like myself. You guys can do it. .....period.

Ellenore Zimmerman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 75
oliver kollar · · off the couch, CA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 10
Angie C wrote: Also, you should not be taking falls on your gear. Falling on a sport bolt is one thing every now and then, but trad gear is another. People should NOT lead trad when they might fall.
Guess I've been doing this climbing thing wrong for the last 20 years. Call me crazy, but I always trust gear I place as much or more than a shiny bolt that someone else has.

To OP, if your anchor skills aren't up to snuff, you might want to toprope some stuff first, I think there is an appendix in Supertopo that lists Yosemite topropes.

It's downright scary climbing in the Valley these days. Climbing in the gym or reading an "anchors" book is not "learning" to trad. Find someone with more experience and have them teach you the ropes.
splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18

oh boy!
if we're taking sides I'm with Angie. she is giving an opinion to someone who appears to be new to leading trad climbs. if he isn't trusting his gear, he better as hell not be falling anywhere.

quit trolling this guy and please don't rap down these routes on the open books, the walk off is easy. pulling two ropes down that route, you're sure to get a rope stuck and piss of climbers.

oliver kollar · · off the couch, CA · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 10

If he isn't trusting his gear, he should not be leading in the Valley, without a Guide or other supervision, period!

And like splitclimber said......rapping in the Open Books can only lead to trouble........the walk off is super easy.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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