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RMNP Climbing Trip

Original Post
ajpowers Powers · · Rio Rancho, New Mexico · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

Hi yall, newbie here but I'm already enjoying the site immensely.

Now to the topic at hand. My friend and I are planning a trip to Rocky Mountain National Park for the first week of August. However we are both new to climbing on the sharp end (sport climbing). Can anyone suggest any spots that we should be sure to hit while we're there?

Any other tips on campsites to stay at, place to eat, etc. would be greatly appreciated as this is my first trip to Colorado.

PalisadePete · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

Yikes!

There's good free camping out past the Long's Peak / Wild Basin area in the adjacent national forrest. Permits are required for all RMNP camping. There isn't much free camping in Estes iteself & there isn't much sport climbing either.

RMNP doesn't allow power drills so most sport routes have a bit of a trad feel to them. Just check out Cowboys & Indians on the Chief's Head. Routes like these get done once every few years for a reason. Please be careful. I think the easiest sport climb here is "birds of fire" @ .11a & has 40 - 60' runouts; most people approach with a full trad rack to supplement the spacy bolts.

If you insist on climbing in RMNP itself, a beginner sport leader would find best luck in Lumpy Ridge, specifically 'the Book' areas. Although technically within the park, this area doesn't require you to pay to enter & is generally distinguished as its own climbing area separate from "RMNP."

If you value your life, I would imagine most beginner sport climbers would take refuge in the surplus of nearby sport climbing areas. Big Thompson canyon has loads of Bolts, St. Vrain canyon is generally bolted & is close to the free camping.

Jurassic park has some great, shiny new bolts that offer terrific beginner climbing. Check out "edge of time" for a classic sport 5.9. It's even on the cover of the guidebook for the area! In fact, this "CO hwy 7 & tributaries" area is terrific for beginners.

There's a lifetime of climbing between Big Thompson, St. Vrain, & highway 7 area that's perfect for beginners!

ajpowers Powers · · Rio Rancho, New Mexico · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

Thanks, that's a lot of help! We only chose RMNP as a preliminary basecamp so our plans are pretty fluid, especially with free camping near by!
Sounds like RMNP might be a bit over our heads then. We're certainly not trying to push our luck quite yet. Would have definitely been bummed to show up and see 5 bolt 200ft'r!

Any more help on that area is appreciated ya'll or even a possible change in destination for some New Mexico boys trying to escape the heat.

Pete Cutler · · Des Moines, IA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 5

+1 to what the above poster said. In my experiance RMNP isn't a great place for beginning. It's a beautiful area though

acouncell · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 190

Agreed with PalisadePete. There are some good, though not necessarily easy (5.9-5.10), sport routes at Wizards Gate and around the Monastery. Again, not really in RMNP but within striking distance. There's also a place called the Ironclads that may or may not be worth checking out. And then Boulder isn't too far away either. You should have lots of options but maybe just not in the Park.

Also, there's lodging ($20/night) at the Colorado Mountain School office in Estes. Their number is (800) 836-4008. There's a full kitchen, showers, cool place to hang out, etc. if you get tired of camping. Also, the office folk may have some climbing ideas for you as well. Good luck!

BoulderCharles · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 95

What about scrambles? There are plenty of good 4th class scrambles in the park if you really want to get up into the alpine.

If you really, really want to get into the alpine, there are plenty of great guides for the park.

Other than that, you could spend days on end sport climbing in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek Canyon. It's still hot but you can chase the shade.

Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,800

For pleasant but not destination climbs in the RMNP vicinity, you can check our Jurassic Park, Lily Mountain, Prospect Mountain, and The Ironclads for short bolted climbs or things you may be able to carefully scramble around to TR. These are all 8000' plus, so you get out of the heat a bit. There are a decent number of lower end difficulty climbs there. Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek Canyon have the disadvantage of lower elevation and higher temperatures. Again, these are climbs to do if in the area and looking for things to ascend with a rope without much experience. The Estes Valley page has a few bits more info, too.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Leo Paik wrote:For pleasant but not destination climbs in the RMNP vicinity, you can check our Jurassic Park, Lily Mountain, Prospect Mountain, and The Ironclads for short bolted climbs or things you may be able to carefully scramble around to TR. These are all 8000' plus, so you get out of the heat a bit. There are a decent number of lower end difficulty climbs there. Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek Canyon have the disadvantage of lower elevation and higher temperatures. Again, these are climbs to do if in the area and looking for things to ascend with a rope without much experience. The Estes Valley page has a few bits more info, too.
+10. You can still have an amazing "mountain" experience in the Estes Valley. Free camping in the national forest in Allenspark near the ironclads, but FYI there is a fire ban. Mary's lake also has some camping as well. Feel free to PM me if you want.
Count Chockula · · Littleton, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 5

There's the Monastery as well...good climbs in a great location.

Jon Lachelt · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 0
Count Chockula wrote:There's the Monastery as well...good climbs in a great location.
You can camp at the parking spot for the Monastery. There's no water though. It's a 30-45min hike to the climbing... uphill both ways!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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