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devils lake east rampart

Original Post
skierhs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

i'm looking to go up and climb the east ramparts during the week and weekends. i'm wondering what time you all would suggest to get up there to get a good pick of the routes. much appreciated than you.

skierhs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

also any routes to suggest for 5,10a/b and 5.9 climbers.

Pete Cutler · · Des Moines, IA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 5

If you get up in the morning and move- 8-9 or so you'll probably have pick of the area. My favorites in that range are sometimes crack, the end, congratulations, upper diagonal (skip birch tree crack, it's a greasy one move wonder) stretcher, chiascuro (not sure if that's how it's spelled - right next to brintons). All of these are good lines, close to where the trail dumps you, easy to find and have way easy top rope setups

skierhs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

those are on the pedestal buttress right?

Jillian1701 McCumber · · Irvine, CA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 25

Early is key. By 9 or so, the East Rampart can be pretty busy. Go with a few backup plans in mind in case the area you want is already taken.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

What a bunch of sleepy heads!! Since when is 9 'early'? In summer, on weekends, you get your ass up there by 6:30 to beat both the crowds and the heat and humidity. I'm climbed out by just after noon, so then off to the lake to drink beers and swim all hot afternoon. Groups show up by 8AM, others come earlier to beat the groups that occupy so much of the cliff on weekends. Mid week is best for sure, then you might get away with closer to 9AM.

Ian Cotter-Brown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 10,141

Most parties will happily share ropes with you, including the guided groups.

Jeremy Riesberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

I've been in the sandstone area since this morning with only my partner and the bugs. It's been a good day.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

Depends on the weather forecast. If it's going to be hot and muggy I would hang out at the diving rocks during the day and head up to the crags late afternoon when all the hot, tired, huddled masses are heading back down. You can then have your pick of routes and climb until dark and enjoy the sunset from the top of the bluffs.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Ed Wright wrote:Depends on the weather forecast. If it's going to be hot and muggy I would hang out at the diving rocks during the day and head up to the crags late afternoon when all the hot, tired, huddled masses are heading back down. You can then have your pick of routes and climb until dark and enjoy the sunset from the top of the bluffs.
Sounds like my days up there. Climb early, swim at the rocks mid day, climb again late into the evening...works every summer to beat the heat and the crowds.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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