Lazy Sunday Route
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 27 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 550 ft (167 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | J. Finkelstein, B. Collett, July 2011 |
Page Views: | 5,259 total · 34/month |
Shared By: | Ben Collett on Jul 17, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a very pleasant, well-protected route. It is definitely the best of the easier routes in the Black Wall Cirque. A few more ascents should make it very clean and enjoyable.
1) Climb the pillar, stepping right at its top and climb up a steep, water featured ramp, ending on its left side after about 115 feet below a steep handcrack in a right facing corner. 5.8.
2) Pull into the corner, and climb it until it ends in a ledgy section. Veer up and left and belay below a roof and a compact looking dihedral after about 100 feet. 5.10-.
3) Climb up the dihedral, passing delightfully featured rock to the roof. Head right under the roof until it is possible to follow a flake with a handcrack behind it up and left. Belay by a couple of spikes at the top of this flake after about 100 feet. There is a wide flare above and to the left of this belay. 5.10-.
4) Step right and climb a steep flake to a good horizontal cam placement. Trend back left to the top of the flare and exit onto a small grassy ledge. Continue up nebulous terrain to a much larger grassy ledge. Walk left a few feet and belay below the fourth pitch of Anniversary Route. 5.9.
5) Climb a few feet up the shallow corner until it ends and it is possible to step right into a large flake. Follow this flake up and right to the arete. Follow the arete to another large grassy ledge. 5.9.
6) Climb the excellent steep hand and fist crack on the right side of the next wall to the top. This pitch is shared with the Anniversary Route as well.
1) Climb the pillar, stepping right at its top and climb up a steep, water featured ramp, ending on its left side after about 115 feet below a steep handcrack in a right facing corner. 5.8.
2) Pull into the corner, and climb it until it ends in a ledgy section. Veer up and left and belay below a roof and a compact looking dihedral after about 100 feet. 5.10-.
3) Climb up the dihedral, passing delightfully featured rock to the roof. Head right under the roof until it is possible to follow a flake with a handcrack behind it up and left. Belay by a couple of spikes at the top of this flake after about 100 feet. There is a wide flare above and to the left of this belay. 5.10-.
4) Step right and climb a steep flake to a good horizontal cam placement. Trend back left to the top of the flare and exit onto a small grassy ledge. Continue up nebulous terrain to a much larger grassy ledge. Walk left a few feet and belay below the fourth pitch of Anniversary Route. 5.9.
5) Climb a few feet up the shallow corner until it ends and it is possible to step right into a large flake. Follow this flake up and right to the arete. Follow the arete to another large grassy ledge. 5.9.
6) Climb the excellent steep hand and fist crack on the right side of the next wall to the top. This pitch is shared with the Anniversary Route as well.
Location
Start in the same place as the Gimp Route and the Anniversary Route - at a pillr of broken rock on the right side of the first Tan Buttress.
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