Soft 5.12 Rumney Suggestions?

Heading up to Rumney soon and looking to get on some soft 5.12s or stout 5.11+. Any suggestions for intro 5.12 climbs? Got on Peanut Man in the past and really enjoyed it. Shut down by the awkward start on Technosurfing. Would prefer overhanging, techy pump fest rather than crimpy slab.

Not sure it'd meet your definition of soft, but try Pump Up The Volume. It's close to the road, so if you end up disliking it or if it's not overhanging enough, then it's low investment enough to just keep walking to the next crag. (Caveat: I haven't climbed it yet, but it does seem to fit your criteria.)

Similarly, if you're low on the mountain and it's not busy, give Flesh For Lulu a go. Again, not terribly soft, but a classic.

Before making the long trek up to Wiamea, stop at Orange Crush, which may have more of the climbs you're looking for. Black Mamba, White Snake, Captain Hook, etc.

Social Outcast
Cosmic Monsters

Jon Mazza wrote:Heading up to Rumney soon and looking to get on some soft 5.12s or stout 5.11+. Any suggestions for intro 5.12 climbs? Got on Peanut Man in the past and really enjoyed it. Shut down by the awkward start on Technosurfing. Would prefer overhanging, techy pump fest rather than crimpy slab.

I'd put a vote in for giant man, and techno surfing or flying hawaian both right around those grades from what i remember but its been years

Jon Mazza wrote:Heading up to Rumney soon and looking to get on some soft 5.12s or stout 5.11+. Any suggestions for intro 5.12 climbs? Got on Peanut Man in the past and really enjoyed it. Shut down by the awkward start on Technosurfing. Would prefer overhanging, techy pump fest rather than crimpy slab.

More pumpy than bouldery
Peanut Man
Stoned Temple Pilot
Social Outcast (Probably the easiest of the group)

More bouldery but probably the easiest 12a's to send
Pretzel Logic
Cosmic Monsters
Things as they are now

Hard 11's
The Crusher
Black Mamba (full)
Apocalypse Later

rock_fencer wrote: I'd put a vote in for giant man, and techno surfing or flying hawaian both right around those grades from what i remember but its been years

Giant Man is not really a "soft" 12... it's 12c and pretty accurate for the grade, IMHO.

The suggestion for Social Outcast is spot on. That was my first 12.

My memory is pretty foggy I guess. I haven't been to Rumney in over seven years now. I do remember social outcast being relatively soft compared to others of the similar grade. But they were all hard then and probably now too

Pump up the Volume is neither soft, overhanging or soft(ya i said it twice) How can you say it is soft if you have never been on it? first 2 bolts are harder than anything on Outcast. super crimpy.

i disagree about Pretzel logic too.. the top of that thing confused the shit out of me haha have no desire to try again.

Things as they are Now is short, techy and a boulder problem that is mostly beta.

Outcast and Orangahang are overhanging pump fests where good beta helps

100% columbian is pumpy techy vertical but a bit crimpy.

Jon Mazza wrote:Heading up to Rumney soon and looking to get on some soft 5.12s or stout 5.11+. Any suggestions for intro 5.12 climbs? Got on Peanut Man in the past and really enjoyed it. Shut down by the awkward start on Technosurfing. Would prefer overhanging, techy pump fest rather than crimpy slab.

Curl Up and Fly. Hands down the softest 5.12a at Rumney. Much easier than Things as They Are Now, provided you have a bit of wingspan and/or the ability to do dynamic moves. 1-move wonder at its finest.

Social Outcast is really good and relatively straightforward by Rumney standards.

Orangahang is also a good bet. Super steep and feels harder until you figure out the proper body position.

Also, give Techno another go. I thought that climb was super-hard until I figured out/was told the proper beta. Now it feels mid-5.11 and I can climb it on command.

Social - pumpy but good rests
Orangahang - one move wonder
Flyin' - stemming crux
Techno - pumpfest if you couldn't do it you were doing it wrong.. mostly 5.11 climbing.

check out this thread...it's almost exactly the same topic

mountainproject.com/v/best-…

It's been a while but I think "pretzel logic" and "pump up the volume" are hard and sharp! "things as they are now" is really soft and "curl up and fly" is too but both the bolts and anchors are a little manky.

tscupp wrote: More pumpy than bouldery Peanut Man Stoned Temple Pilot Social Outcast (Probably the easiest of the group) More bouldery but probably the easiest 12a's to send Pretzel Logic Cosmic Monsters Things as they are now Hard 11's The Crusher Black Mamba (full) Apocalypse Later

+1

If you want a soft and steep 12a, look no further than Social Outcast.

Get good beta for the last 10 moves from a local, and the entire thing will fly by. It took me only a few tries to dial in my beta for the entire climb (It's like 30 moves, super short) and easy to memorize move by move. It's split by the no-hands rest, and you can just move quickly to avoid the pump. Give it a try!

Cereal Killer (11c) is also a fun harder 11, pumpy, but again, get good beta and move quickly and it becomes so much easier.

For hard 11s I'd recommend:

The Crusher @ Orange Crush - long, varied and pumpy, nice exposure
Pulse @ Pulse wall - short, steep and fun. There is often a nice breeze where this is located and it's commonly less crowded, dries quickly too.
Nicky's Crack @ the Hinterlands - thin, technical face climbing. You can get to the anchors easily to work it via a 5.7. dries fairly quickly
Via Ferrata@ the Main Cliff - only 11c, but nice and airy. Do all 3 pitches!
Retrospade @ the New Wave - It is kind of a series of interesting boulder problems interspersed with shakes, but I really like it. You will need a piece or two to throw in the angling crack near the bottom if it is not fixed, big finger sized, almost anything works, nuts or cams, but make sure it is bomber.

Possibly easiest first 12's:
Things As They Are Now and Curl Up and Fly @ Jimmy Cliff - short and bouldery.
Captain Hook @ OrangeCrush - with some good beta this is pretty easy for a 12a and many person's first - bouldery bulge to a rest and then a pumpy finish.
Vallee Daze @ New Wave - classic looking arete. I personally don't find it climbs as well as it looks like it should, but it gets many raves and is certainly good. It is easy to set up to work by doing the 10 to the left.
Stoned Temple Pilot @ the Prudential - used to be called 11+, steep and pumpy with a few power moves thrown in :)
Cosmic Monsters @ Monsters Crag - fairly short, power endurance.
PeanutMan @ Main cliff, great stone, fun moves, but you already did it, easy to get to anchors via Underdog if someone needs to work it on TR

A few other 12a's, not necessarily easy, but recommended:
Flesh For Lulu @ the Meadows - pretty tall and pumpy face climbing.
The Vaporizer @ Orange Crush - great climbing, tall and a little intimidating.
Social Outcast @ Bonsai - You have to get on this one, goes out a steep arete mostly jugs. This may be a good first 12 if you have some power endurance.

Silver Surfer @ Waimea - will probably kick your ass and freak you out the first time on it because it is weird and technical, but it is great climbing.

Luau @ Waimea - next to Silver Surfer, a little easier and more straight forward. This one used to be a lot of peoples first 12 before everybody got stronger at bouldering and found routes like Things as they are easier.

Orangahang @ Orange Crush - Steepness! good beta helps a lot. tends to be slathered in chalk because it is so popular. Do not work it on TR or you will destroy your rope

There are a ton of good 11b and cs at Rumney. If the weather stays showery, as it has been, a lot of the routes will be slimy or soaked though, so you may have to wait for drier conditions to get on them.

Jake D. wrote:Pump up the Volume is neither soft, overhanging or soft(ya i said it twice) How can you say it is soft if you have never been on it?

Eh: fair enough. That's why I started off with "not sure it'd meet your definition of soft" and ended with the caveat. I threw it in the mix because although its not soft, it's a short approach and easily assessed for qualitative fit from the ground. ie. He can take one look at it and decide if he likes it or not. It's also relatively less busy than many of the others recommended above.

As with any subjective advice, YMMV.

It's Rumney, everything is soft.

Peter Jackson wrote: Eh: fair enough. That's why I started off with "not sure it'd meet your definition of soft" and ended with the caveat. I threw it in the mix because although its not soft, it's a short approach and easily assessed for qualitative fit from the ground. ie. He can take one look at it and decide if he likes it or not. It's also relatively less busy than many of the others recommended above. As with any subjective advice, YMMV.

alright.. most peoples definition of soft is easy for the grade.. which it is not.

bonsai and orange crush are not far hikes.. nothing at rumney is a far hike if you do any hiking other than for climbing. probably under 2mi to anywhere.. under a mile to most crags.

Jake D. wrote:nothing at rumney is a far hike if you do any hiking other than for climbing.

On this point we definitely agree. :) You can hike 1.25 mi and be on the summit!

That said, I think Orange Crush is the OP's best bet, with the bonus being that it's only 4 minutes from the small lot.

I think Sprague's list is the most comprehensive and good. I would add Social Distortion to the list of easy .12, especially if you are a stronger boulder than climber. It was the quickest .12 to fall for me at Rumney. Curl Up and Fly favors those with a good reach. Pump Up The Volume and Captain Hook I found really crimpy (may not be what the OP wants). Valle Daze is very good. People tell me Weevil Knevil is a good 1st .12a candidate. STP is good (sorry I am not a great fan like some people are) and felt every bit .12a to me.
Oh, not everything at Rumney is soft.

S. Neoh wrote:I think Sprague's list is the most comprehensive and good. I would add Social Distortion to the list of easy .12, especially if you are a stronger boulder than climber. It was the quickest .12 to fall for me at Rumney. Curl Up and Fly favors those with a good reach. Pump Up The Volume and Captain Hook I found really crimpy (may not be what the OP wants). Valle Daze is very good. People tell me Weevil Knevil is a good 1st .12a candidate. STP is good (sorry I am not a great fan like some people are) and felt every bit .12a to me. Oh, not everything at Rumney is soft.

Soon we need to climb together again sometime. I've been on Distortion 2-3 times now and that bottom crux kicks my ass and i'm taller than you are but not quite tall enough to make Otey's beta work :P

Weevil is pretty hard on the bottom and pumpy up top. i think the others are easier.