gym doubling on routes.

We decided to lead two back to back routes at the gym to increase pump and make it more "life like" Now I am noticing more and more people are doing the same...Are we setting the new trend , or is everybody training for endurance nowadays?
After the first ten doubles I noticed a great increase in "the real world pump"!

craghead wrote:We decided to lead two back to back routes at the gym to increase pump and make it more "life like" Now I am noticing more and more people are doing the same...Are we setting the new trend , or is everybody training for endurance nowadays? After the first ten doubles I noticed a great increase in "the real world pump"!

No, that is nothing new.

Our gym is short (~30') and quite a few people do 2, 3, or 4 routes in a row to build or maintain endurance.

My gym has 35 ft walls. We always do double and triple routes, but my endurance still sucks. I think the short time it takes me to get lowered, pull the rope, and get back on route is enough time for my muscles to reset and rest. Even with the double and triple routes, I still feel worn out 2/3 of the way up a long pitch.

As much as I HATE down climbing in the gym, I think my endurance training will have to include double or triple routes linked by down climbing, so my muscles never fully rest.

EDIT: Obviously the down climbing thing will only work on top rope.

C. Archibald wrote:EDIT: Obviously the down climbing thing will only work on top rope.

It's actually not that hard to unclip as you downclimb, assuming your gym will let you get away with that. That way you can keep leading on subsequent laps. Most people pick an easier adjacent route to down climb, but I guess that's obvious.

For full effect, don't step off the wall at the bottom before starting up again.

I haven't found laps that helpful personally, but many people swear by them.

You work your muscles in a different way when you down climb. Climbing is like doing a pull-up, but just the first part. Lowering back down is good way to fully work the muscle. It's also a very useful skill to have for when your are off route, over your head or need to bail.

You work your muscles in a different way when you down climb. Climbing is like doing a pull-up, but just the first part. Lowering back down is good way to fully work the muscle. It's also a very useful skill to have for when your are off route, over your head or need to bail.

mike seaman wrote:You work your muscles in a different way when you down climb. Climbing is like doing a pull-up, but just the first part. Lowering back down is good way to fully work the muscle. It's also a very useful skill to have for when your are off route, over your head or need to bail.

Did I just have Deja Vu?

Was this thread really made?

mike seaman wrote: to fully work the muscle.

Giggidy.

mike seaman
Giggidy, giggidy

mike seaman wrote:You work your muscles in a different way when you down climb. Climbing is like doing a pull-up, but just the first part. Lowering back down is good way to fully work the muscle. It's also a very useful skill to have for when your are off route, over your head or need to bail.

Damn, this thread just got stupid

IronMan wrote: Damn, this thread just got stupid

Just got? What do you think of the OP?

Mark E Dixon wrote: Just got? What do you think of the OP?

Ok, ok. The thread was already kind of pointless, the pull up post made it more pointless.

IronMan wrote: Ok, ok. The thread was already kind of pointless, the pull up post made it more pointless.

Well, speak for yourself. I find that if I downclimb head first I can work out the antagonist muscles and prevent muscle imbalances.

Mark E Dixon wrote: Well, speak for yourself. I find that if I downclimb head first I can work out the antagonist muscles and prevent muscle imbalances.

Sounds fun, if not a little sketchy

talking about pullups...I remember slapping a 25 pound plate aroung my waist to train for ice season doing pullups with it.
I rarely down climb, but I was told that if you are a static climber like myself you dont really need to do that. i often reverse movesif my clip or placements are sketchy.

i realise that my armso strenght is far more than my finger strenght, so we decided to alter technical days and endurance days. Anything below 10c gets doubled still though.

check...check