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Experience with Beal Joker as double rope?

Original Post
J Kazu · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 65

Shopping for a set of double ropes. Anyone have experience using a pair of Beal Jokers in a double rope system? They are rated for use as single, double, and twin. I've also been looking at the Mammut Genesis which are strictly double ropes (which I have used and like) but the flexibility of a set of Jokers would be nice if they work well as doubles too.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Justin Sugiyama wrote:Shopping for a set of double ropes. Anyone have experience using a pair of Beal Jokers in a double rope system? They are rated for use as single, double, and twin. I've also been looking at the Mammut Genesis which are strictly double ropes (which I have used and like) but the flexibility of a set of Jokers would be nice if they work well as doubles too.
I have used them as both a twin and a half. They suck for both because at 9.1mm they are really heavy. We are talking over 100 g/m for the pair, which is about the weight of a 1/2" static rope. Also, they have thin sheathes which can cause them to wear out quick. Overall, they are best suited as a single. The Genesis ropes are far better.
Dan Flynn · · Northeast mostly · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5,065

I sometimes use a Joker + a 7.8 tendon rope as a light double system, also flexible in that you can just lead on the Joker and keep the skinny rope in a pack. No problems tying these together.
Genesis are tough and nice handling.

J Kazu · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 65

Thanks for the helpful replies. I can see how using two 9mm ropes would be way too heavy. Looks like I'll be picking up a set of Genesis ropes. The flexibility of your system sounds like a good option to have though Dan.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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