Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.6 from 131 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Don Mellor 1985 |
Page Views: | 8,234 total · 49/month |
Shared By: | E thatcher on Jun 4, 2010 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
FDDD starts by climbing up the initial corner of Labatt-Ami, before cutting back left on good holds, until you are just shy of the arete. Small gear can be found at either end of the traverse and should be utilized while still being as extended as possible.
From the end of the traverse, make a couple hard, thin moves to a jug rest at the base of a thin crack. Protect in the crack with small nuts and face climb up to the crux, getting into a small left facing corner.
Once you've gained the corner follow the 5.7 jug haul to the top.
The gear on the 5.10 sections of this climb is small and decently spaced. I would not hesitate to call it PG 13. The 5.7 jug haul is unprotected for the last 15-20 feet and certainly R. The holds are, however, the definition of juggy.
There is a direct version that pulls a roof to the right of the mainline. It goes at 5.10d R, but can be easily TR'd off of the same anchors.
From the end of the traverse, make a couple hard, thin moves to a jug rest at the base of a thin crack. Protect in the crack with small nuts and face climb up to the crux, getting into a small left facing corner.
Once you've gained the corner follow the 5.7 jug haul to the top.
The gear on the 5.10 sections of this climb is small and decently spaced. I would not hesitate to call it PG 13. The 5.7 jug haul is unprotected for the last 15-20 feet and certainly R. The holds are, however, the definition of juggy.
There is a direct version that pulls a roof to the right of the mainline. It goes at 5.10d R, but can be easily TR'd off of the same anchors.
16 Comments