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Josh climbing through the crux

Id# 108199893,  Dimensions: 2000 x 1127 - View full size 
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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Jun 18, 2013

Is this at the top, on the Anarchy and Chaos variation?

By derekpearson
Jun 18, 2013

Josh is right where Anarchy and Chaos starts . Climb left from this spot to the thin corner . It is really dirty right now but would clean up very easy on a dry day . I wanted to clean that day but didn't have a brush .

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 1, 2013

recently lead this great pitch, thanks to Derek and Jon for the cleaning and new bolts and anchors. I cleaned on lead to place gear and one can skip the old 1/4 bolt, good blue alien placements up that open book. I was pretty glad to clip the bolt ( installed for left variation) on the right variation after getting a small brass nut on left face of dihedral, maybe just because it was dirty but was hard sketchy move.

By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Aug 1, 2013

Yeah, that 1/4" bolt near the top is pretty sketchy. I'm glad you got a good piece in there.

I haven't really cleaned anything on this pitch. Last year, I pulled some bushes out of the right variation as I was TRing it, and this year led it (also pulling out a few things).

In general, I like the right variation as it is the more natural line to take, but it needs a more complete cleaning.

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Josh climbing through the crux

Submitted By: derekpearson on Jun 18, 2013
On this route:
Law and Order (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a )