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New Routes Between Dog House and Cat Slab

Original Post
Mike Morin · · Glen, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,350

Someone has obviously been very busy. Anyone have any info on these new routes? Might head up there today after work to check them out.

Kirk Miller · · Catalina, AZ and Ilwaco, WA · Joined May 2003 · Points: 1,824

Cool! I always thought there was a lot of potential there.

Mike Morin · · Glen, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,350

Climbed two of the three routes after work. The first one was probably 5.7 and was quite fun. The second one on the left was probably 5.10+ with a thuggish start. The 5.10 needs to be cleaned, but was ok. It's hard to judge quality when a route is still very dirty and has questionable holds, so it may climb better after it cleans up. We ran out of day light and didn't get on the line on the right. Also, the 5.7 has a second pitch that we didn't do, because we were climbing as a party of three. All in all a fine addition to the area. It looks like the three routes are about all the crag has for quality route potential.

Alton Richardson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 170

The area you've described is pretty massive. Where is all this in relation to the tunnel?

JenH · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 145

Aren't they on opposite sides of the road? Please share the beta. Also, I heard they may be new development in the area of Black Widow Slab in BoCan?

Tj Elmblad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

I met the guy who bolted them from ground up the other day. He said they were decent moderates, and seemed to have a decent head on his shoulders. Thanks Adam for adding these routes. The routes are up and to the right of tunnel if you are facing east. You cant miss the shiny new bolts.

C Fitch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 470

In March, Adam Huxley and I put up "Stray Cat" on the far right of the Buttress, 5.8, 80', 8 bolts w/2 bolt anchor.

In April, we did the best route so far, in the center of the buttress, start near a rotten looking, right leaning ramp, "Out of the Blue", 5.9, 160', P.1, 80', 8 bolts w/2 bolt anchor, P.2, 5.7, 80', 8 bolts w/2 bolt anchor.

Farther left, at a black roof with bolts, is "Into the Black". A 5.10+ boulder problem starts a 5.8 face, 80', 10 bolts, w/2 bolt anchor.

Chuck.

Mike Morin · · Glen, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,350

Thanks for taking the time to put the routes up Chuck. We enjoyed them and thought they were a good addition to the area.

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410

We did all 3 routes the other day. We started with the furthest right (Stray Cat 5.8) and would not recommend it - the rock is pretty rotten/crumbling the whole way up and the rope drag was terrible, even with some long draws. If you do climb it, make sure your belayer wears a helmet and bring a few long draws as it wanders a bit.

We really enjoyed the other 2 climbs though - the rock was way better quality on both, although as Mike mentioned the 10+ is still pretty dirty. We both thought the first move was more in the 11a range but perhaps we were missing something. Probably goes a bit easier if you are taller. It's also great to have another moderate multi-pitch in the canyon.

Will this area have its own name or be considered part of Catslab? If it gets its own name, we thought 'The Litterbox' might be appropriate! :) Thanks for the hard work in adding these lines!

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,381

It's now called the "Cats vs. Dogs Wall".

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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