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Lito and the Swan

Name: Lito and the Swan
Rating: 2.6

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13

Routes in j. The Yellow Wall and The Seasons

L › R R › L A › Z

	48 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	49 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Airy Aria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Blistered Toe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bold-Ville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Boldina T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Broken Hammer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Carbs and Caffeine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dissonance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Double Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fall, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Fillipina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	High Jinx T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Ivan and the Saum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Lady's Lament-Boldville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Lito and the Swan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Los Tres Cabrones T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lost in Yellow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
	Mona T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	No Man's Land T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Oblique Twique T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Prick, The T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
	Scary Area T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Shit Creek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spring (P1), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sting, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Summer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Tiers of Fear T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
	Torture Garden T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tweak or Freak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unslung Heroes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Vader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ventre de Boeuf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Wasp Stop T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Winter, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Yellow Wall, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

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Type:	Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA:	Jim McCarthy and Lito Tejada-Flores 1965
Page Views:	2,422 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Ross Fadely on Jan 12, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

If it weren't for the PG-R section, this would be a popular, classic route! It's long, pumpy, and will hold your attention the whole way up. The lower section is particularly interesting, with un-Gunks-like holds above small gear. On a busy day this climb is usually free!

Head up a few feet until you can step left and join the obvious crack. Climb straight up this, exiting right at the top at a ledge with a block. Step left onto the block, below a right-facing corner. Make the crucial blue Camalot placement that protects the PG-R section. Climb up into the corner to its top and pull the overhang to the left. Head straight up into a V-shaped open book. From the top of the book, head up, either to the Double Crack belay tree or straight to the GT. Holy pump, Batman!