Lake George

Gonna be up there this weekend with the girlfriend... will any other climbers be there for the weekend?

Think we're in site 54 - feel free to swing by and say hi. Def looking to get on the wall at the end of the campground if anyone is up for it in addition to rogers!

Wish I was. That place looks awesome! I think I'll have to make a trip out there this year.

Wrong Lake George.

C-Mo and Skully,
I'm coming from AZ to climb that Rogers rock and maybe more. What is a pared-down rack I can bring so the airlines won't make money on me. How about a run of link cams, stoppers and 8 QDs (rope too!). Something tells me the cams won't find a place up there. Any info is great.
Thanks,
Steve

mcarizona wrote:C-Mo and Skully, I'm coming from AZ to climb that Rogers rock and maybe more. What is a pared-down rack I can bring so the airlines won't make money on me. How about a run of link cams, stoppers and 8 QDs (rope too!). Something tells me the cams won't find a place up there. Any info is great. Thanks, Steve

I've only climbed a few times at Rogers and it's been limited to the main slab. I'd bring ur smallest stuff... C3's, brass, a ball nut or two (smallest sizes), power cams #1-3 were all very useful. It's a great place but man you can cook on that fu*ker!

Agree that small cams are most useful. Bring or have lots of draws for Little Finger if you plan to protect it reasonably. It's a long first pitch and can empty a standard rack. There's pins at the top but not sure I would just use them (I add a cam for the anchor). The other pitches are shorter but also require gear anchors (last pitch ends at a bolted rap).

Most of the other routes have bolts and a couple cam placements, and are a little runout (15+ feet between bolts/pieces). Pretty typical slab protection by most standards but worth mentioning.

Thank you all, I'll hope for some cloud cover!
Steve

Nothing bigger than one inch, typically.

mcarizona wrote:C-Mo and Skully, I'm coming from AZ to climb that Rogers rock and maybe more. What is a pared-down rack I can bring so the airlines won't make money on me. How about a run of link cams, stoppers and 8 QDs (rope too!). Something tells me the cams won't find a place up there. Any info is great. Thanks, Steve

You need double ropes for most of the rappels, so keep that in mind too.

I'm going to be in Saratoga July 5,6,7 seeing a band . i was going to try to make a day trip and get some climbing in- traveling with non climbers so I'm looking for a partner.

WillM7 wrote:I'm going to be in Saratoga July 5,6,7 seeing a band . i was going to try to make a day trip and get some climbing in- traveling with non climbers so I'm looking for a partner.

If I make it out to SPAC for the shows I'll go climbing inbetween shows!!!!

Travis Dustin wrote: If I make it out to SPAC for the shows I'll go climbing inbetween shows!!!!

Sounds good brother! Another guy who is headed the shows just hit me up - 3 is a party!

WillM7 wrote: Sounds good brother! Another guy who is headed the shows just hit me up - 3 is a party!

I'll be there... sleeping and eating all day prep'ing for evening phestivities. I've found climbing and Phish always seems great until the morning after a rager and all you want is a cold beer and the pool.

That said... Rogers will likely be WAY too hot in July. This past weekend was low 70's breeze, low humity and partly cloudy and it was a cooker.

Shelf Rock sounds great and the Campground/Cove walls are sick looking so there are other options up there.

CaptainMo wrote: I'll be there... sleeping and eating all day prep'ing for evening phestivities. I've found climbing and Phish always seems great until the morning after a rager and all you want is a cold beer and the pool. That said... Rogers will likely be WAY too hot in July. This past weekend was low 70's breeze, low humity and partly cloudy and it was a cooker. Shelf Rock sounds great and the Campground/Cove walls are sick looking so there are other options up there.

Yeah I was thinking that about the rager too- I won't be getting to SPAC until the late evening of the 4th anyways; so I was thinking of hitting up shelving rock and doing the sport stuff there the 6th; that's probably the only day ill be able to get out. I figured I'd force an early start, hit as many routes as I can and be back to drink a couple beers on lot preshow. If you wanna climb with ill hit you with some beers on lot Phriend.

Kevin Heckeler wrote:Agree that small cams are most useful. Bring or have lots of draws for Little Finger if you plan to protect it reasonably. It's a long first pitch and can empty a standard rack. There's pins at the top but not sure I would just use them (I add a cam for the anchor). The other pitches are shorter but also require gear anchors (last pitch ends at a bolted rap). Most of the other routes have bolts and a couple cam placements, and are a little runout (15+ feet between bolts/pieces). Pretty typical slab protection by most standards but worth mentioning.

Keven is right. Little Finger is a Clsssic! We just did that about 4 wks ago! Super fun climb, great pro, great rock and a super view! Loved it. The fixed pins looked good as well that are there - of course we backed them up with some cams. Bring small wired nuts and small cams as Kevin said above. And as he said, there are a lot of nice bolted routes there - great bolts for pro and raps off. If doing Little Finger it's better to have 2 ropes for full length raps as we did. And bring the camera!
You will def need a boat of canoe to get to Rogers Rock from the campground's boat launch. We did. Nice 15-20 minute paddle out to Rogers Rock. Wicked fun on a nice sunny day! Don't forget the sun screen if you burn easily and plenty of water! On a hot sunny day - it gets hot on their as the face is all in the sun all day - but we had no problem(s) as it was like 76 or 79 when we went!

Enjoy! It's wicked nice rock!

One note for anyone who reads this who is planning on going to do Little Finger. If someone beats you to it in the morning don't bother waiting around. I've seen quite a few people place an inordinate amount of gear and take all day to get up this three pitch climb. If in doubt, seek out another route, Screaming Matrix was a great linkup.

I would also recommend a good pair of sticky rubber approach shoes for climb rather then rock shoes. So much more comfortable.

What is the approach and how spread are the climbs at shelving?

WillM7 wrote:What is the approach and how spread are the climbs at shelving?

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/shelving-rock/107743027

adirondackrock.com/newroute…

Climbing areas are within a few minutes walk of each other. By ADK standards the approach is easy.

oh ya re:phish spac, anyone have any extra pavilions any night?

CaptainMo wrote:One note for anyone who reads this who is planning on going to do Little Finger. If someone beats you to it in the morning don't bother waiting around. I've seen quite a few people place an inordinate amount of gear and take all day to get up this three pitch climb. If in doubt, seek out another route, Screaming Matrix was a great linkup. I would also recommend a good pair of sticky rubber approach shoes for climb rather then rock shoes. So much more comfortable.

We approached Rogers Slab from canoe from the State Boat Launch, so there wasn't much of a approach. All we had to do is pull our canoe up on the small piece of land at the base to the left of Little Finger, pull the canoe up ashore, tie it off to a tree - walk right about 20 ft and we were right at the base of the route.