BD X4, ongoing real-world review (will update over time)
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Were you placing and weighting all those pieces? Did you try to bend it back into place? |
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Jonathan Dull wrote:Were you placing and weighting all those pieces? Did you try to bend it back into place? Also, thanks for the detailed review! Great Info.You can bend it back and forth by hand, no weight needed. As I mentioned, it remains to be seem whether repeated bending will make a more permanent kink. |
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Jake Jones wrote: I think he was asking how all the cams got bent to begin with. Someone earlier in the thread mentioned (I think) that there was a kink in one that wasn't caused by weighting it while placed or falling on it. This seems like an issue that should have been discovered during QC and before they went out.I bent them by hand to take the picture, and then I bent them back by hand. Edited post to make this more clear. It seems like you are unlikely to be able to produce the same results by hanging/falling on them, since you'll be pulling in line with the stem. Remains to be seen if this is a real issue or not. |
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thanks for the review- very helpful. Though not making me run out to buy X4's anytime soon. |
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A few more comparisons below: |
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We'll assume that if we don't get an update, then we should avoid buying them. |
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I'm thinking on getting either the X4 or C4 (sizes .5 & .75) or the mastercam red. |
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Chris Cavallaro wrote:I'm thinking on getting either the X4 or C4 (sizes .5 & .75) or the mastercam red. Thoughts on one over the other? I know there are a lot of opinions on this thead, but I guess I'm hoping for a cut n dry opinion please. I'm leaning towards the BD, but cant find the X4 anywhere. So, I'm confident I will be happy with the C4s in the .5 & .75 sizes? Thoughts please? Thanks in advance everyone! Edit to Add; those pictures of bent x4 cams have me quite concerned.Chris, I think these were going to be your first purchase in that size, correct? If so, C4s are great. Buy them on sale and get the .5 and .75. When you have the $/need for doubles, look into a Red MC (kinda fits inbetween) or doubles w/ X4s. |
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+1 for Aliens and off-set aliens. |
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Quicky update from the weekend: |
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I finally got to play (in the store) with a Blue X4 the other day. I had my green and yellow Totem Basic cams (aka improved Aliens) to compare to. Here are some observations.
Bottomline: the X4 is a very sexy, well finished piece of gear. It is fundamentally a prettied up Alien. Functionally though, I think the Totem Alien has the advantage (narrower head, more flexible stem, lighter). I am going to stick with the Totem Basics, especially if they start making the smaller size (old blue Alien) again. |
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I bout e .75 size before a trip to RMNP this weekend. Overall, I'm incredibly impressed. Smooth action on the trigger and nice narrow head width. My girlfriend pointed out to me that the longer stem made it easier for her to get to the trigger when cleaning the cam. However, I'm reserving my opinion until I get the .1 size, I hardly ever take my 00 Master Cam with me while climbing because I find the range to be nearly useless while free climbing. But looking at the .1 at Neptune Mountaineering, I think I could actually make that a key component to my rack. |
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Just as an FYI, I'm going on a longish road trip in a few weeks, in which I expect to climb nearly every day if possible. I'll give a full update when I get back (end of August). Should have a good sense of durability by the time I return. |
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Two of our X4s also got bent without weighting them at all. |
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out of curiousity did u do that by hand? |
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They were kinked like that after climbing - no falls and no aiding. |
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Just fucking move them back by hand, it's not like it takes any force/ effort at all. |
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any close up pics? I'm really interested in the overall perfromance of these in terms of durability. seems like a slight oversight by BD, will they have second gen? |
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NorCalNomad wrote:Just fucking move them back by hand, it's not like it takes any force/ effort at all.Oh really?!? It was just an observation that people may be interested in. |
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If it makes people feel any better U CAN MOVE THEM BACK EASILY BY HAND and when u fall on them, since the force is directed straight down the stem into the sling it wont normally kink unless placed very awkwardly. Ive got friends that have put 30 plus pitches on them and they have told me that when they have seldomly kinked due to odd loading when aid climbing they have if bad enough fixed the bend by hand. |