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Routes in Flying Flatiron
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Birth and Transmogrification TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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East Face Complete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Inside Passage, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Less Talk, More Sauce T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Satan's Toy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Weak Sauce T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 930 ft (282 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | R. Cassady & J. Nading, 1994. |
| Page Views: | 2,956 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Apr 7, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a bit of an alpinish romp. Some details here may prove useful. This description here was our attempt to follow close to the line described by Rossiter's Flatiron guide.
Approach via Mesa Trail off CO Hwy 170, West of 93. Go North on Big Bluestem, then proceed cross country. This is somewhat hard to find. Get a good bearing on it before you're off in the woods. Once you are in the trees, it becomes harder to spot the Flatiron. 3 rocks looked suggestive. Finally, it's higher.
We started about 50 feet left of the nadir of the rock.
P1. Per Rick Blair: Roach has the start a few feet left of the low point at a 3 foot high roof then angel up right to a big tree about 120 feet up, it goes 5.6, is steep for the Flatirons and quite run out.
Alternatively: Up a ramp 220 feet to a tree on a ledge with light pro. This could be split into 2 pitches, but belay stances were less obvious.
P2. From this ledge, you can go up a bowl, loop a flake, sling a tree, up to a tree, 170 feet.
P3. Up right across a slab to a chimney/slot, 60 feet. Belay somewhat au cheval.
P4. You can go up right to the edge, but it may be better up middle of slab, 200+ feet. A #4 Camalot is useful.
P5. Go up & traverse left, up a middle rib, to a ledge on the right, 190 feet. 2 wireds + #2 Camalot were useful.
P6. Go up a rib & down, through the arch (airy) from right to left. Pull on a block (gently), go up a finger rail to the top, 80 feet.
Rap 55 feet to the North. Hike to Fatiron & then down.
Approach via Mesa Trail off CO Hwy 170, West of 93. Go North on Big Bluestem, then proceed cross country. This is somewhat hard to find. Get a good bearing on it before you're off in the woods. Once you are in the trees, it becomes harder to spot the Flatiron. 3 rocks looked suggestive. Finally, it's higher.
We started about 50 feet left of the nadir of the rock.
P1. Per Rick Blair: Roach has the start a few feet left of the low point at a 3 foot high roof then angel up right to a big tree about 120 feet up, it goes 5.6, is steep for the Flatirons and quite run out.
Alternatively: Up a ramp 220 feet to a tree on a ledge with light pro. This could be split into 2 pitches, but belay stances were less obvious.
P2. From this ledge, you can go up a bowl, loop a flake, sling a tree, up to a tree, 170 feet.
P3. Up right across a slab to a chimney/slot, 60 feet. Belay somewhat au cheval.
P4. You can go up right to the edge, but it may be better up middle of slab, 200+ feet. A #4 Camalot is useful.
P5. Go up & traverse left, up a middle rib, to a ledge on the right, 190 feet. 2 wireds + #2 Camalot were useful.
P6. Go up a rib & down, through the arch (airy) from right to left. Pull on a block (gently), go up a finger rail to the top, 80 feet.
Rap 55 feet to the North. Hike to Fatiron & then down.
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