1 arm belay
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maybe you could make a stirrup for your foot and attach it to the gri gri lowering lever ...a lowering pedal... |
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The nice thing about Pete and Mo is they actually KNOW how things work with one arm instead of guessing ;) I've been belayed by both of them and they have had their whole life to come up with ways to accomplish tasks one handed. |
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Jake D. wrote:The nice thing about Pete and Mo is they actually KNOW how things work with one arm instead of guessing ;) I've been belayed by both of them and they have had their whole life to come up with ways to accomplish tasks one handed.Well worth keeping in mind, Jake. Sorry about my part in the armchair quarterbacking... (That said, I'd be interested in Mo's and Pete's opinion of the Hewbolt...) |
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Sorry gang, I'm in Vail competing in the first para-climbing event woot! Gimp monkey is here too, so we'll chime in after this weekend. |
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frankstoneline wrote:what about just stepping on the rope to lock off? Use a gri gri or other, pull in slack, step on rope, slide hand up, pull in more slack repeat.This was my first thought too, and I suppose it would work for belaying kids. The problem comes when belaying heavy people. If they take even a modest fall, you get pulled off balance, gri-gri holds, but the back-up (foot) is gone. |
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TimmyMo wrote:Hi all, I'm new to the site and was curious if there were any arm amputees or people who climb regularly with arm amputees that can give me some pointers on belaying safely with one arm. Is there any gear out there that would help? I was in an accident last fall and now my right arm is completely paralyzed. It was a work accident leaving my brachial plexus completely wrecked. But I have 3 kids whom love climbing and I'd love to be able to belay them again. I also want to get back into gym climbing this winter if the doctors give me the ok but I'm hesitant because with that half of my chest and back being mostly paralyzed I don't want to over strengthen the one side and distort my body. What do you guys think?That is awesome that Gimpmonkey and Momoface conributed! Also, if you want, I can pass on your contact info to Aron Ralston, the guy who cut off his arm in a slot canyon to save his life. Email me if you do. |
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Momoface wrote:Sorry gang, I'm in Vail competing in the first para-climbing event woot! Gimp monkey is here too, so we'll chime in after this weekend.AWESOME. |
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I have absolutely nothing to useful to contribute here, except to note that TimmyMo and the other folks here working, successfully, to overcome these sorts of challenges are a fecking inspiration. Awesome! |
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TimmyMo wrote:Hi all, I'm new to the site and was curious if there were any arm amputees or people who climb regularly with arm amputees that can give me some pointers on belaying safely with one arm. Is there any gear out there that would help? I was in an accident last fall and now my right arm is completely paralyzed. It was a work accident leaving my brachial plexus completely wrecked. But I have 3 kids whom love climbing and I'd love to be able to belay them again. I also want to get back into gym climbing this winter if the doctors give me the ok but I'm hesitant because with that half of my chest and back being mostly paralyzed I don't want to over strengthen the one side and distort my body. What do you guys think?So ditto what Pete said, and I'll add that 98% of people here are way over thinking it. Don't feel overwhelmed. I'll probably be in Calgary later this year, lets meet up! |
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Aric Datesman wrote:Timmymo- First off, good luck. Second, once Momoface/Carabiner96 chimes in ask to see a pic of her prosthetic ice axe arm. It's badassed. Thinking on this some more, you might be well served for toproping by tracking down a Hewbolt Single. Absolutely the best thing for toproping IMO, as they're passive lock-assist and give the best control when lowering (much better than the almost binary on/off nature of other devices when used one handed). Will be hard to track down since it's been years since they stopped making them, but definitely worth looking. That's my purple beast, there are some other designs in the pipe line. |
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Aric Datesman wrote: Well worth keeping in mind, Jake. Sorry about my part in the armchair quarterbacking... (That said, I'd be interested in Mo's and Pete's opinion of the Hewbolt...)I'm not familiar with the hewbolt, gimpmonkey and I were talking about it this weekend and it sounded like he knew someone that used one, though I'm not sure if it was under these circumstances. |
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Momoface wrote: I'm not familiar with the hewbolt, gimpmonkey and I were talking about it this weekend and it sounded like he knew someone that used one, though I'm not sure if it was under these circumstances.From the greatest belay device collection of all time... storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDe… (Don't worry, I had no idea either!) |
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Allen Corneau wrote: From the greatest belay device collection of all time... storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDe… (Don't worry, I had no idea either!)I'm the kind of person that needs to see it in action, otherwise it looks like a hunk of metal to me :) a very pretty hunk, none the less! |
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Momoface wrote: I'm the kind of person that needs to see it in action, otherwise it looks like a hunk of metal to me :) a very pretty hunk, none the less!Aric had one at the gunks.. I think it works on the same principle as the Mammut Smart. which i think would be a decent 1 hand compromise between ATC and Gri Gri |
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Jake D. wrote: Aric had one at the gunks.. I think it works on the same principle as the Mammut Smart. which i think would be a decent 1 hand compromise between ATC and Gri GriHaven't tried one yet, Mal has one and seems to like it, maybe I'll check his out. |
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Momo- Mal's out of town for a couple months, so track down Langston... He is in Denver somewhere, IIRC, and had two until I traded him a #4 pre-C4 Camalot for one of them. Oddly, we both thought the other got swindled. :) |
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What's a smart, like $30? I may as well just pick one up, if it works , great. If not, I'll just toss it in the closet, behind my road bike, drum set and dignity. |
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Momoface wrote:What's a smart, like $30? I may as well just pick one up, if it works , great. If not, I'll just toss it in the closet, behind my road bike, drum set and dignity.Ha!!! |
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Momo- check your FB in a couple minutes... |
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Momoface wrote:What's a smart, like $30? I may as well just pick one up, if it works , great. If not, I'll just toss it in the closet, behind my road bike, drum set and dignity.hahaha that's hilarious. definitely let me know when your coming up to Calgary and we can meet up and you can show me a thing or two. :D I love that Pic with your axe. that thing is killer. you should bring it with you if you come up this way. |