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Bunyan Mountain Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
Fix Location

Areas in Bunyan Mountain

Main Face 6 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Upper Left Tier 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

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GPS:	42.3991, -71.8259 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	11,434 total · 86/month
Shared By:	Brian on May 14, 2013
Admins:	Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Private Property Details

Per Avalon and Brian: this is on private property and can not be accessed legally without permission.

Description

This is a great cliff that is virtually unknown to most MA climbers. The rock quality is great. There are long 100 foot routes. Access is the issue. You have a bit of a hike unless someone knows a better way in.

Getting There

It is in Monson, MA. Take exit 8, the Palmer exit off Rte 90 to Rte 32 south. I've heard that there is access off Bunyan Road, but don't take this as fact. Ask permission to cross anyone's land. You may be able to go in the back way to the top of the cliff by going in the hospital grounds and parking where there is a gated dirt road and walk in that way.

Per Brian: it has been reported that the access from Bunyan Road is not an option. The landowner has been leaving notes on the windshields of people parking there. It has also been reported to me that local climbers regularly park here at a small three car pullout at the trailhead. So park at your own risk.

Climbers are now accessing Bunyan from the west side through Macomber Road. It practically goes through somebody's backyard, so ask nicely before you go there. Macomber Road is off Upper Palmer Road. Park and find an indistinct trail to the top of the cliff.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bunyan Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Crack In The Box Trad Main Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Bunyan Crack Trad, TR Upper Left Tier
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 11 ● Serpent Crack Trad, TR Main Face