Beta on NRG or Franklin

Will be visiting family next month and while the family has the kids my wife and I will be going on a few day trips to NRG or Franklin. I mostly do the leading ranging from 5.7/5.10 while she TRs 5.8s/5.9s. Looking to see what area is is better for sport and setting up TRs, never been there before so I don't know anything about the area, thanks for any advice.

Tattoo wall in Bubba City is great for sport. Fun 5.8s and 5.6s, and some steeper grades as well.
Junkyard is trad but most everything has anchors that you can easily access from a trail that runs a long the top. Both have great climbs. Get the book and have fun

Photocodo

A few days' trip? Franklin doesn't have nearly enough to keep you busy.

At the New, I would recommend Sandstonia at Bubba City as mentioned above, Summersville, Whipporwill if the lake is low and Butcher's Branch at Kaymoor in that order. These are really your only options for concentrations of easy sport.

Oh, I realized that you are taking multiple day trips instead of one big trip. Franklin has a really fast approach, and there are actually a pretty decent number of good 5.9s.

Thanks for all the input, I wish it could be one long trip but gotta spend time with the family.

Bridge Buttress and Junkyard offer the shortest hike with top ropes that are very easy to set up from the top of the cliff. All the routes are trad, but you can hike to the top.

Depending on how old your kids are and if they can hike a ways, Sandstonia and Beer Wall at Bubba City are good options for you too. Sandstonia is far left and Beer Wall is far right so treat those as two separate days.

If your kids can do about 15' of ladders, Summersville Lake is good. There are many 5.7-5.10's all over the place. Do not try Whippoorwill, the water is too high. Can't get down there till late Oct. or Nov.

+1 for bridge and junkyard.....super easy top access and not much approach. not a ton of sport, but some real solid trad/tr to put up. for some moderate sport, check out central endless and kaymoor

camping is all over, aac for something you can walk to the crag or ace if you want showers and a quietish spot, cantrells if you wanna go to the bar and have a hot shower.....word on the street is their hot tubs are extremely poachable too

the vandalian shut down, so breakfast is either the cathedral or bubbas brunch. really good dinners @ diogis, secret sandwich and pies & pints....theres a burrito shop thats pretty clutch for something on the run.

stop in waterstone, it's the mecca for climbers....they're super chill and will literally draw you maps of how to get to whatever crag you want and their beta is usually spot on

you'll get super stoked at the new, tons of rock and all styles of climbing. the first time i went to the new was for a weekend, i ended up staying for 2 1/2 weeks......so be careful