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Routes in Muralla Grande
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Clarks Cramps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dire Straights T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Excitable Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Excitable Boys Headwall Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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La Selva T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lawyers, Guns & Money T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Liar King T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Little Yellow Jacket T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Out to Lunch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rapture T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Second Coming, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunderbird T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Warpy Moople T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Mike Roybal, Clark Gray 1973 |
| Page Views: | 3,456 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Clark Gray on Jan 25, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
There has been some confusion where this route goes and how long it is due to it being inaccurate in Mike Hills guide book. Here is the original route description written just after the first ascent.
Start this route at the large ramp at the bottom of the SW face.
Two easy 5.2 leads take you to the bottom of a short 5.7 layback. At the top of this layback there is nice ledge. Set up your belay on the far left side.
From this belay traverse to the right and upward one pitch to a nice belay ledge on the SW ridge.
From here it is an easy full pitch 5.5 traverse left following a ledge and crack system that ends at football ledge.
From football ledge climb the obvious crack system that starts with an awkward off width crack right above the ledge. follow this for four pitches.
When the crack system ends traverse up and right
Traverse back left to a small clean belay ledge at the bottom of an open book with a hand jam crack above it.
The last lead 5.6/5.7 goes up this crack 30 Ft to the summit.
Start this route at the large ramp at the bottom of the SW face.
Two easy 5.2 leads take you to the bottom of a short 5.7 layback. At the top of this layback there is nice ledge. Set up your belay on the far left side.
From this belay traverse to the right and upward one pitch to a nice belay ledge on the SW ridge.
From here it is an easy full pitch 5.5 traverse left following a ledge and crack system that ends at football ledge.
From football ledge climb the obvious crack system that starts with an awkward off width crack right above the ledge. follow this for four pitches.
When the crack system ends traverse up and right
Traverse back left to a small clean belay ledge at the bottom of an open book with a hand jam crack above it.
The last lead 5.6/5.7 goes up this crack 30 Ft to the summit.
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