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The best ~9.8 rope around?

Original Post
Peter Hurtgen · · Dallas, TX · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 110

what is the best rope around in the 9.8ish size? i have a tusk and its okay.(mammut) I would want it to be 70m but i could do with or without a dry coating and bipattern. Also a very low price on any size of rope would sway my preference towards a 9.8.

Alec O · · Norwich, VT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 31

I have the Edelweiss Curve. It's $200 for a bi-pattern 70 m (approximately). (I have the 60 m.) It felt a bit stiff at first, but after 1-2 pitches of use it softened up and feels great now. Easy to handle; hasn't really kinked or twisted at all; and it comes with its own (cheap-o) rope bag. The slight stiffness makes clipping easy, too, I find.

I can't comment on its durability, as I've only used it for about 6 days. So far, so good, though.

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

Bluewater lightning pro's seem to be pretty reasonable lately, it's a 9.7, but mine has taken a beating and still keeps kicking.

jdberndt · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 200
frankstoneline wrote:Bluewater lightning pro's seem to be pretty reasonable lately, it's a 9.7, but mine has taken a beating and still keeps kicking.
+1
Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60
jdberndt wrote: +1
another +1 for the bluewater. Plus its super soft and supple, and has better impact ratings the either of the two others mentioned.
Kirsten KDog · · Edgewater, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 80

I bought a Bluewater Pulse (I think 9.8, bi-color, 70m) and have really enjoyed it so far. It's holding up well and I think it'll be quite the workhorse. I found it on justropes.com for $180, which I thought was a steal for how nice the rope is.

Mammut ropes can last forever from what I've experienced, no issues with them (the Tusks I've owned just go and go) but I really like Bluewater and Sterlings too.

Cheers!

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 35

I too have a Pulse 70m (9.9mm but light). I got a great deal on it too and it has so far lasted deep into its first season with little sign of wear.
Mammut Galaxy 10mm and Marathon Pro 10.1mm are truly tough workhorses.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Compare weight to width, steeling is typically lighter. I have always liked sterling, mammut & edelrid. My friend bought a tendon from The Clb for $143 shipped and says its good.

Tomtomtomtom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

I currently have an edelrid heron (9.8mm 70m dry coated). Its seen about one full season of moderate to frequent climbing. Limestone has nothing against it, but the one time I climbed granite (vosges) and someone took a fall it scruffed up quite a bit...

Patrick Mulligan · · Reno, NV · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 995

+1 for the Edelweiss Curve.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

edelweiss performance. but its a 9.2 and rad

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

Edelweiss Curve ARC, bi-pattern.

Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80

My last rope was an Edelweiss Onsight 9.9, 60m (no longer made). It's held up very well over the years and I'd still lead on it today if I needed to.

My replacement for the Onsight is a Sterling Velocity 9.8 (70m) and while I've only had it out for a few days it seems like it will be a great rope as well.

Aaron Bugh · · Bozeman, MT · Joined May 2011 · Points: 500

Peter! My New England Glider 9.9 was awesome, we climbed on that thing for two freaking years and I only just retired it this summer. You know I recommend it. That being said you've climbed on it and know how it handled so up to you. ps my new edelweiss is not holding up as well as I would like so far.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Mammut Infinity is another great rope to consider - a bit pricey, but durable. It is 9.4, but Mammut measures their ropes under tension, so it feels like a 9.8.

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

I'm about to buy one too and I'm really tempted by the Curve Arc. But there's this talk of a weak sheath. Their site describes it as a single-strand weave that's supposed to enhance durability. I'd really like to hear people's experience/opinions on this. And also... it has great specs in terms of dynamic elongation. Could that be too much? My Mammut rope has much less and has always felt super soft on the catch.

Mike Bond · · Kentucky · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 3,191
Peter Hurtgen wrote:what is the best rope around in the 9.8ish size? i have a tusk and its okay.(mammut) I would want it to be 70m but i could do with or without a dry coating and bipattern. Also a very low price on any size of rope would sway my preference towards a 9.8.
+1 For Sterling Velocity. Nice hand, not kinky, burly.
johnsonbrad1 · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10
Aaron Bugh wrote:Peter! My New England Glider 9.9 was awesome, we climbed on that thing for two freaking years and I only just retired it this summer. You know I recommend it. That being said you've climbed on it and know how it handled so up to you. ps my new edelweiss is not holding up as well as I would like so far.
I'll second this, it handles great, and is holding up well so far. Only downside was it seemed to pigtail a lot more than other new ropes I've seen, until it broke in.
michaeltarne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 120
Doug S wrote:I'm about to buy one too and I'm really tempted by the Curve Arc. But there's this talk of a weak sheath. Their site describes it as a single-strand weave that's supposed to enhance durability. I'd really like to hear people's experience/opinions on this. And also... it has great specs in terms of dynamic elongation. Could that be too much? My Mammut rope has much less and has always felt super soft on the catch.
I've had one as my main rope for about a year and I love it to death. A couple hundred (or more, not really sure) pitches on it and it still handles beautifully. There are a few small frays on it, but it isn't anywhere near the point where I would have to cut it in the near future. I love it. I wouldn't say that it is too soft of a catch, but I don't have a whole lot to compare it to, since my regular climbing partner has the same rope.
DuncanKL · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

Anything but the Tusk. I'm consistently amazed at its ability to pick up dirt and remain stiff even after many pitches of use. Literally every other rope I've used recently is significantly better.

I know you already know all that, Peter, but I wanted to reinforce it for everyone else.

Matt..C · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20
DuncanKL wrote:Anything but the Tusk. I'm consistently amazed at its ability to pick up dirt and remain stiff even after many pitches of use. Literally every other rope I've used recently is significantly better. I know you already know all that, Peter, but I wanted to reinforce it for everyone else.
I don't seem to have any issues with my Tusk. It is an older model, but it stays cleaner than my Petzl rope and I like how it handles over the Petzl as well.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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