Mountain Project Logo

Been up Longs or Capitol lately?

Original Post
Michael Sullivan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 745

I'm planning on making an attempt Capitol Peak and Longs before the 11th and was wondering if anyone had been up either recently? Longs has got a ton of snow on it at the moment and there's plenty of conditions beta for the Keyhole, but I am more interested the Cables. Has anyone gotten a look at it recently? As for Capitol I was planning on attempting the NE Ridge. Wondering if it's covered in snow or not.

If anyone has any info more current than what is already out there it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you much.

AndyMac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 1,123

As for Capitol, we did it on 6/6 a few years ago. The route was still covered in snow and ice with some exposed rock. The knife edge was clear. I did it again a couple months later when it was totally dry and found it pretty mundane. No current conditions but there's an idea form the same time frame. Here's a TR if you want to see pictures.

Robbie Flick · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 17

Hiked up to junction to chasm lake last week. Trail was icy at times and merited microspikes about halfway to treeline. Didn't get a good view of Cables; the photo here just barely gets the top of it. Looks pretty snowy.

I'll be up there again tomorrow; PM me and I'll shoot you some photos when we're down!

Long's Peak May 31 2013

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186
Cables Route
This is looking down the Cables route from a few days ago. Only two eye bots were exposed and the one pitch went at M1.
Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Oh NO! The skis are on yer back...

Michael Sullivan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 745

Thanks for the information guys.

Got up Long via the Cables Route on 06/09. It was pretty chill, lots of snow and very easy climbing on the "technical" pitch. A single tool was used for that part. All of the eye-bolts are exposed.

Tried Capitol's NE Ridge on 06/07 but was forced to turn back at K2. Steep snow on both sides of K2 paired with very warm temperatures made proceeding a very dubious proposition. The latter half of the approach was a multi-mile posthole slog. It would seem to me that Capitol is in that frustrating nether-period when winter routes are half-melted and dangerous, and summer options have yet to appear.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "Been up Longs or Capitol lately? "

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.