loop hole for Lone Pine permit?

Lone Pine permits are all reserved the day before we have a whitney summit permit. Im not from California and didnt think about the restrictions. Anyone have any suggestions or know of any loop holes about getting to iceberg lake the day before we climb the east buttress of Mt Whitney in case all reserved permits and walk in permits are taken? I know there is a walk in lottery the day before your summit and they allow 4 people. What are your thoughts?

For the last two years we have successfully got walk ins, but there is no guarantee - if possible allow a couple of days to get the permit, and while you wait hang out and climb some of the amazing routes at the portal.

thanks Euan! Can I try to get a walk in permit 2 days before our actual summit bid, or does it have to be the day before? Thanks for your help. Are they pretty strict on the permits?

Walk-in permits for north fork of lone pine creek are released the day before at 11am. You have to be there to reserve them.

I've had good luck getting walk-ins on Friday morning in the past.

I've tried twice for walk in permits for the N Fork...got it the first time, but not the 2nd. Most people who are in the lottery are looking for Whitney Trail permits, but all it takes is 1-2 other parties looking at N Fork and you can come out empty handed.

My advice is: have another option in mind (N Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is good) or be willing to try again the next day.

North Ridge of Lone Pine peak is a worthy backup objective , a day hike up to Mt. Langley is also ...

It's been a LONG time since I've been there, but can't you get yourself a PCT through hike permit and essentially enter damn near anywhere/time you want as long as that trailhead will get you somehow to the PCT?

Steve M wrote:It's been a LONG time since I've been there, but can't you get yourself a PCT through hike permit and essentially enter damn near anywhere/time you want as long as that trailhead will get you somehow to the PCT?

No

@Steve M: I wish I could do that, what a great idea, however, when I went on the PCT website, it read this:
Mt. Whitney Zone permit
There is a $15-per-person fee to enter the Whitney Zone in Inyo National Forest. The Whitney Zone stretches from the summit eastward. If you plan to visit Whitney Portal or Lone Pine, CA from the summit of Mount Whitney, you’ll need to pay the Mt. Whitney fee. Holders of the Whitney Zone Permit should re-enter the wilderness within 48 hours of when they exit to resupply. No permits will be issued for trips originating from Whitney Portal.

For additional information regarding the reservation requirements contact the Inyo National Forest Wilderness Permit Reservation Office, 351 Pacu Lane, Ste 200, Bishop, CA 93514 or (760) 873-2483. Permit information can also be found at fs.usda.gov/inyo.

The government is not spending much money on backcountry permit enforcement these days.

Fred 4 wrote:The government is not spending much money on backcountry permit enforcement these days.

True. You probably won't see a Ranger enforcing backcountry permits anywhere in the Sierras, with the exception of Whitney Portal. The only two times I have ever been required to show my permit was at Whitney Portal and at a very popular trail in Wyoming.

Yes, but Murphy's Law states that the one time you go sans permit is the one time that ranger is there checking.
I wouldn't mind paying a small fine if that happened - being escorted straight out is what would suck.

Yeah, I was wondering what time they were checking for permits. Anyone know how much the fine is if they try to cuff us on the way out? Regardless, ill opt for the day before lottery to be safe.

Amy Denicke wrote:Lone Pine permits are all reserved the day before we have a whitney summit permit.

I'm pretty sure what you're calling a 'Whitney summit permit' is a permit for a one day ascent of the hiker's trail.

You don't need a "summit permit" to climb from Iceberg. So get a Lone Pine permit for anytime you want, and summit whenever. I've never NOT gotten a walk-up permit on a weekday.

Im on your team Richard. Its not worth risking it. Its not just a fine and the embarrassment of getting escorted out thats the problem, it makes all climbers look bad.

What would be the best alternative to the east buttress of Whitney? ie rock quality, grade 3, views, experience. Im obviously not from around your parts. Thanks!

Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne comes to mind , no permit but still crowded.

The ridges on Conness ...

Just search Sierra classics online or on MP and you'll get a bunch of info ...

Amy Denicke wrote:What would be the best alternative to the east buttress of Whitney? ie rock quality, grade 3, views, experience. Im obviously not from around your parts. Thanks!

In addition to what's already been mentioned, it may be worth procuring a copy of "The Good, The Great, and the Awesome" by Peter Croft. It outlines his favorite long climbs in the Sierras at reasonable grades. To start with Swiss Arete on Mt. Sill, and Moon Goddess and Venusian Blind on Temple Crag are all steller, long, and 5.8 or easier.

Cathedral Peak was mentioned, and is nice too, but is much shorter and MUCH more crowded than any of the routes that were mentioned in the High Sierra (or maybe anywhere on the planet) will be.

Amy Denicke wrote:What would be the best alternative to the east buttress of Whitney? ie rock quality, grade 3, views, experience. Im obviously not from around your parts. Thanks!

East Ridge of Mt. Humphreys.


South Face of Charlotte Dome.


Southeast Face of Clyde Minaret.

The SE Face of Clyde is in no way comparable to the East Buttress of Whitney. Great route but much harder, much more serious.

jack s. wrote: True. You probably won't see a Ranger enforcing backcountry permits anywhere in the Sierras, with the exception of Whitney Portal. The only two times I have ever been required to show my permit was at Whitney Portal and at a very popular trail in Wyoming.

I used to work for the Inyo. They generally have 3 rangers dedicated to the Mt. Whitney zone and they do patrol the North Fork Lone Pine Creek. You'd probably be really disappointed to climb up all the way to Iceberg and be told to turn around.

It's not the same magnitude but for route quality try going up to Cathedral Peak or Bear Creek Spire. Less approach and just as much fun. Views aren't bad off either peak.