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The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
CaptainMo wrote: I love the romantic view of TR'ing a trad route and the utter disdain at TR with regards a Sport route... totally classic! Foot in mouth? Here in CT, TR'ing is it's own beast, there are Traditional, Sport, and Top Rope routes.
Some of the death leads at Devils Lake were never led for years. I think there still must be a few really nasty hard to protect top-rope only climbs there, and new ones I"m sure I don't even know about. It has much more top rope climbing each weekend than many other trad' climbing areas I've ever been to, that's for sure.
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Yup, this thread blows...I am out!

Fuck it all

youtube.com/watch?v=wRwwUZL…

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

I'm just sitting back and watching this one, WAY too easy. First time I've seen Eggbert pissed! Keep it up!

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
Trad Nanny wrote:I'm just sitting back and watching this one, WAY too easy. First time I've seen Eggbert pissed! Keep it up!
Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
CaptainMo wrote: Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?
Agree that some of those 'first leads' were done on such sketchy pro. After endless wired toprope ascents, that 'lead' was basically a free solo cuz nothing would have held a fall on them. Amazing how tough it is to find a placement on much of that rock.
Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
CaptainMo wrote: Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?
Yes, the first part was free solo, but then I got one good piece in.
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Damn it, I am back.

Enjoy this little slice of heaven from last March;

awesomepants...

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

Wow. That hurts my head.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

that's like a double break bar set of 'biners binding down on the rope, besides the nice single slings and awesome force that side pull anchor must be placing on the gate of the biner....as often said here....'yer gonna die'.!

Tito Krull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 5

hello everyone. climbing the lake june14th through the 25th hit me up i got rope, and gear, and awesome jk,(920)250-1621, looking for people more knowledgeable about the areas, i've only been there a few times. wanna climb the shit outta that place and meet peeps that wanna do the same.

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

This is the same anchor as the last picture, just zoomed out and makes it even scarier!

from above

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

you could probably fill 2 pages here on Mtn Proj every Monday morning with weekend TR photos.

I think CT and WI need to have a TR anchor forum created

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
jon jugenheimer wrote:This is the same anchor as the last picture, just zoomed out and makes it even scarier!
Dat ain't perdy but that one looks bomber actually... come to CT and TR wit some twig anchors! I think folks in CT get their thrills these days with sketchy TR anchors rather then sketch climbing.
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
CaptainMo wrote: Dat ain't perdy but that one looks bomber actually... come to CT and TR wit some twig anchors! I think folks in CT get their thrills these days with sketchy TR anchors rather then sketch climbing.
A pic of a 6" diameter tree being used by 3 parties at once would be a good one.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
jon jugenheimer wrote:This is the same anchor as the last picture, just zoomed out and makes it even scarier!
This is why I have a few 'miles' of tubular webbing and head back from cliff edge to find that massive boulder or tree instead of the nut-clusterfuk' often seen. I really try to avoid anchors placed on the very edge of the cliffs if at all possible, AND never cross the trail with anchors. Best yet, go to out of the way spots where it doesn't matter.
EB · · Winona · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,207

Static line is the way.

Bill Thompson · · Marquette, MI · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 245
Angela Limbach · · Milwaukee, WI · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 5

While on top of the East Rampart the other weekend to teach an anchor building clinic (which maybe some people on this thread should look into...) saw a doozy of an anchor. Unfortunately no pics, but I can assure you it was set off a dead tree, and I think it had one other little piece in it. If we would have seen the setters I'd have invited them to join us!

Steve Heikkila · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

Wow, those are some jive-ass anchors. They should be here: jive-assanchors.com

Megan Johnston · · Reno · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 20

hey! anyone want to climb this week?! I am flying in from Salt Lake City and am bringing my rope and rack... unlike the kooks you've seen out setting terrible and dangerous TR anchors, I am competent and experienced.

I have a wedding on Friday and family stuff on Saturday... available tuesday-thursday and sunday-monday.

Megan

megan.c.johnston@gmail.com

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