The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...
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CaptainMo wrote: I love the romantic view of TR'ing a trad route and the utter disdain at TR with regards a Sport route... totally classic! Foot in mouth? Here in CT, TR'ing is it's own beast, there are Traditional, Sport, and Top Rope routes.Some of the death leads at Devils Lake were never led for years. I think there still must be a few really nasty hard to protect top-rope only climbs there, and new ones I"m sure I don't even know about. It has much more top rope climbing each weekend than many other trad' climbing areas I've ever been to, that's for sure. |
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Yup, this thread blows...I am out! |
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I'm just sitting back and watching this one, WAY too easy. First time I've seen Eggbert pissed! Keep it up! |
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Trad Nanny wrote:I'm just sitting back and watching this one, WAY too easy. First time I've seen Eggbert pissed! Keep it up!Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo? |
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CaptainMo wrote: Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?Agree that some of those 'first leads' were done on such sketchy pro. After endless wired toprope ascents, that 'lead' was basically a free solo cuz nothing would have held a fall on them. Amazing how tough it is to find a placement on much of that rock. |
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CaptainMo wrote: Looks like you were workin ACid Rock on lead... doesn't leading something like that basically make it a free solo?Yes, the first part was free solo, but then I got one good piece in. |
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Damn it, I am back. |
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Wow. That hurts my head. |
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that's like a double break bar set of 'biners binding down on the rope, besides the nice single slings and awesome force that side pull anchor must be placing on the gate of the biner....as often said here....'yer gonna die'.! |
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hello everyone. climbing the lake june14th through the 25th hit me up i got rope, and gear, and awesome jk,(920)250-1621, looking for people more knowledgeable about the areas, i've only been there a few times. wanna climb the shit outta that place and meet peeps that wanna do the same. |
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This is the same anchor as the last picture, just zoomed out and makes it even scarier! |
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you could probably fill 2 pages here on Mtn Proj every Monday morning with weekend TR photos. |
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jon jugenheimer wrote:This is the same anchor as the last picture, just zoomed out and makes it even scarier!Dat ain't perdy but that one looks bomber actually... come to CT and TR wit some twig anchors! I think folks in CT get their thrills these days with sketchy TR anchors rather then sketch climbing. |
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CaptainMo wrote: Dat ain't perdy but that one looks bomber actually... come to CT and TR wit some twig anchors! I think folks in CT get their thrills these days with sketchy TR anchors rather then sketch climbing.A pic of a 6" diameter tree being used by 3 parties at once would be a good one. |
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jon jugenheimer wrote:This is the same anchor as the last picture, just zoomed out and makes it even scarier!This is why I have a few 'miles' of tubular webbing and head back from cliff edge to find that massive boulder or tree instead of the nut-clusterfuk' often seen. I really try to avoid anchors placed on the very edge of the cliffs if at all possible, AND never cross the trail with anchors. Best yet, go to out of the way spots where it doesn't matter. |
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Static line is the way. |
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While on top of the East Rampart the other weekend to teach an anchor building clinic (which maybe some people on this thread should look into...) saw a doozy of an anchor. Unfortunately no pics, but I can assure you it was set off a dead tree, and I think it had one other little piece in it. If we would have seen the setters I'd have invited them to join us! |
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Wow, those are some jive-ass anchors. They should be here: jive-assanchors.com |
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hey! anyone want to climb this week?! I am flying in from Salt Lake City and am bringing my rope and rack... unlike the kooks you've seen out setting terrible and dangerous TR anchors, I am competent and experienced. |