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Climing in the Bugaboos.

Original Post
Anna Gilyeat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Hello, me and my friend from England will shortly be leaving for a 7 week climbing trip in Canada. We are definitely hitting Squamish but we would also like to climb in another area. I was wondering if anyone has any information on the Bugaboos. If we were to go there we would go in the last half of July - is this too early? Also me and my friend have done alpine climbing in the French Alps but we are far from experienced Alpinists. How serious is the area? does anyone know if there is much rockfall are approaches ok? if we were to go here we would climb below are usual level but I am still a bit worried if this would be too serious an area to visit. Are most descents abb or walk off? Also i have heard the Bugaboos can get really bad weather? would be really grateful if people have useful information.

Thanks very much Anna :)

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Check this out: Bugaboos

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
I was wondering if anyone has any information on the Bugaboos.

I have climbed there every year for the past 12 years or so. The following link is a first hand account of the routes I have climbed.

Bugaboos

If we were to go there we would go in the last half of July - is this too early?

It is not ideal. July has more rain. Your chances of climbable days improves dramatically into August and September.

Also me and my friend have done alpine climbing in the French Alps but we are far from experienced Alpinists. How serious is the area?

Much more serious than the French Alps, but much bigger reward in terms of climbing as well...no comparison.

does anyone know if there is much rockfall are approaches ok?

It is all relative I suppose. These are glaciated surroundings. Freeze/thaw cycles happen all year long at the elevation of the climbs. However this is granite vs limestone to the east in the Canadian Rockies, so most of us consider it much safer in comparison. All depends what one is use to. The Bugaboo-Snowpatch col can be the most dangerous aspect of the trip, if for nothing more than the sheer number of folks in the line of fire.

Are most descents abb or walk off?

raps

Also i have heard the Bugaboos can get really bad weather?

yes, very true, impossible to predict almost...a gamble in terms of time it takes to get back there vs luck with a weather window...I personally would never go back there in July...have done it before and sat out quite a bit...good luck with your trip

Bugaboos

Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401
Anna Gilyeat wrote:If we were to go there we would go in the last half of July - is this too early?
Keep your eye on the weather forecast and the ACMG mountain conditions report ( acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp). Some years July can be wet (see Dow's comments above) but I've been there three times in late July and had good to excellent conditions each time. The advantage of being there a bit earlier in the season is the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col will have more snow cover - it can be nasty when the snow's gone.

Anna Gilyeat wrote: Also me and my friend have done alpine climbing in the French Alps but we are far from experienced Alpinists. How serious is the area?
Compared to the French Alps it's a very remote area, but by Canadian Rockies standards it's quite well-developed. If you're uncertain, start with the W Ridge of Pigeon Spire, it's a classic beginner route. After that you could try something like Kain route on the Bugaboo Spire.

If it helps, here's how the Elaho guidebooks rate a couple of climbs in European alpine terms:

Pigeon, W Ridge: PD
Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route: AD-
Bugaboo Spire, NE Ridge: D-
Snowpatch Spire, SW Spur: D+
S Howser Tower, Beckey-Chouinard: TD+
Hans Bauck · · Squamish, BC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,099
Anna Gilyeat wrote:If we were to go there we would go in the last half of July - is this too early?
Late July can be a great time to go, with long warmish days and still enough snowpack to make the approaches easier and safer.

There is definitely some loose rock, and some of the approaches can be sketchy if you aren't comfortable on steep snow. Accidents from rock fall are common, as are accidents from falls on the approach/descent. Be careful. Many people aren't.

Most descents involve rappels and scrambling.

Yes the weather is awful sometimes. Bring a book or two and some cards or something just in case.

I haven't climbed in the Alps, so I can't compare. But I will say that I've been to the Bugaboos 8 times now, and will likely be there this year. It's amazing, and it may change your life. Don't miss it. For that matter, don't miss Squamish either.

Some other beta:

Plan for a week minimum. Two is better.

Get this guidebook highcol.ca/downloads/previe… It's usually available at the hut if you can't find it elsewhere.

Bring your double ropes (you are British after all). Otherwise a single 60m will get you off everything, though a 70m is better).

Bring very light boots/crampons/ice axe. Aluminum crampons are fine. I generally use approach shoes when I have to carry over a route.

Most people stay at Applebee. There is generally a good vibe there and lots of friendly people.

Bring cash to pay for camping or hut fees. You may be able to use a CC but I'm not sure.

There is a lot of info on the web re. routes. Without knowing your comfort level, some different ones I've done that I recommend are

West Ridge of Pigeon Spire
Ears Between, Crescent Towers
Snowpatch Route, Snowpatch Spire
NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire
Kraus-McCarthy, Snowpatch Spire
Paddle Flake, Crescent Spire
Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser
Sunshine Crack, Snowpatch Spire

It could be argued that either of the last two may be best the route ever.
James Crump · · Canyon Lake, TX · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200
Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

To be honest, Sept is truly the best month to be in the Bugs. Call it global warming or maybe it has always been that way, but the weather pattern has been the most stable these past ten years or so in that region during Sept. Not to mention tourist climbers start to empty the place as well. The down side is sunlight hours.....you have to be a proficient leader/team to pull off say Beckey-Chouinard on the South Howser with less day light than the much longer days of August and July. I have done it in September in spectacular fashion/condition, but also have run into ice filled cracks on another trip that late. Of course you can get that phenomenon in August as well with certain temps/storms. The Bug/Snowpatch col is not a big deal. Sure it is safer in the am, but its main issue is simply the volume of folks who hike up to Pigeon's west ridge or the Kain 5th class scramble up Bugaboo. As a sunny day alternative, there are very quick raps down the north side of the ice fall between Pigeon and Snowpatch. I use those about half the time anyway, depending on what I am climbing and where I am camped.

Anna Gilyeat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks very much that's great info! I think we will just see when we get there and see how it goes. Don't want too bite off more than we can chew but It does look pretty amazing!

Thanks anna :)

Parker Kempf · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

hello all,
ill be in the bugs from june 23-july13, i know its not an ideal window for weather and all, but its all i had to work with....assuming i get a few days of clear skies, is it to early in the season for some routes because of snowpack/runoff? anybody been up there yet this season?
thanks!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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