1:1Space hauling vs.2:1 body hauling

Thoughts? Say you're hauling 1 bag, maybe 150lbs, on a trip up salathe. 2:1 seems like it might take longer to set up but make hauling a heavy load easier. I have little hauling experience and am drawn to the 1:1 for simplicity. Im willing to learn either technique if there is a hands down winner here.

Kirk L wrote:Thoughts? Say you're hauling 1 bag, maybe 150lbs, on a trip up salathe. 2:1 seems like it might take longer to set up but make hauling a heavy load easier. I have little hauling experience and am drawn to the 1:1 for simplicity. Im willing to learn either technique if there is a hands down winner here.

150lb? That's like 18g of water. 2:1 set up really isn't no more complicated than 1:1, especially you have hauling kit set up before you leave the belays.

Look up the 2:1 hauling system on this site, it makes hauling a lot easier. But if you are hauling in space, then 1:1 works really well.

If the bags weigh much more than you, use a 2:1 (or go to the buffet more often). If they weigh much less and the haul is clean, go 1:1. If they are around your weight, it gets to be a much harder decision. If you are a man of steel, stick with 1:1, if you are doughy like me the 2:1 can make sense.

My bet is that you haven't mapped out your load. On Zodiac we left he ground about 85-90 lbs of water alone (about 3.5 liters per person for 6 days plus containers), and another ~35 lbs of food. Add another 40 lbs of clothes/sleeping bags/etc, another 30 lbs of portaledge (we had 2 singles), and about 10 lbs of the extra big cams, etc. and you quickly find that unless you are moving quick it is hard to leave the ground with just 1 haul bag and only 150 lbs in it. Expect 2 and 200+ lbs until you have actually weighed your crap. If you are the sort that moves fast enough to not need that much, you wouldn't be asking such a question.

It is easy to switch between 1:1 and 2:1.

mountainproject.com/v/21-ha…

I've never used anything but a 1:1 on many an El Cap Route etc. Set up your haul through the hauling device, tie your main line in to the anchor with 20-30ft slack or whatever will keep you off the next ledge below, clamp your jugs on the free end of the haul line and start working your way down the wall as you pull up on the bags. If they're too heavy wait for your partner to clean the pitch high enough so he can jump on the free end of the haul line below you and add weight thus helping you haul. when your 20-30ft of slack tie in point comes tight jug back up. If your both on the haul line jug up simultaniously or have one guy hold the bags from continuing up the wall while the other jugs. When your done hauling the second guy can finish cleaning the pitch while you sort out the anchor and secure the piggies, etc. Super fast:)

yeah, 2:1 hauling is easy, but takes for fucking ever, and I found kinda threw out my shoulders cause you're doing the same pull up/squat motion like 400 times per haul. as soon as you can get away with it switch to 1:1. the ability to far end haul is the shit. get microtraxes!

If you are going to 2:1, space haul it. You can do short 15' space hauls on your Z cordlette. However, for 150 lbs you are kind of in the red zone. Space hauling with that little weight would be tricky on a 2:1. But none the less, it will still be easier than 2:1 body-hauling it. However, I would try for the 1:1. I have hauled close to 150 lbs. on a 1:1 and I only weigh 150 lbs. You can grap the bag-side of the static rope to help pull you down which should make it quite manageable.

There is simply no way around it, two climbers on El Cap for five days on a route that requires ledges will haul somewhere around 250 pounds. I've done it too many times, and I've actually weighed it all, so don't bother arguing.

Also, I've climbed three major El Cap routes with Cheyne Lemepe. He is, at the very least, a better and faster climber than anyone who has posted here so far (he has three one day solos of three El Cap routes to his credit). He has NEVER beaten the bags to the anchor and I ALWAYS haul 2:1.

I can arrive at a belay and after tying up the anchor, pull my hauling kit out of its bag and be hauling in less than five minutes. I've been timed numerous times doing it so you can't argue with that either.

You guys should stop wasting time, go buy the stuff I have in this photo and set it up EXACTLY as I have it. You will NEVER make a significant improvement on my system (bigger pulleys might get you a 5% increase in efficiency but you would be increasing the kits weight and bulk).

Buy this exact stuff and quit talking about it!

yeah, but mark you're not human...

maybe it's the gibbs ascender that I use, which doesn't grab as immediately as a basic. I never timed myself, but I know that it took awhile to haul with my 2:1, and the repetitive pull up and push down motion tweaked my shoulder, I guess I'm just light!

Keenan, I've used a Gibbs in the past and I think you're right.

The 2:1 system takes some practice, it does have a few ins and outs. You really need to practice with it and really work to understand it before going up on a wall with it.