Toyota Tacoma how to get best price???

It seems impossible to find a used Tacoma for a decent price so I'm looking at buying new. The local dealer is willing to do Edmunds fair price, is that truly a good price???

What I want: Access cab, V6-AT, TRD Offroad. Tow package.

The funny thing is that you will pay about $1000 more for that truck, new on the lot, than you'd pay for the same truck 2 years old with 25k miles.

Toyota's are funny like that.

Even mid 90's rigs with over 250k on them going for $5000 some times.

If you skip the bullshit that is truly not needed, like the TRD or V6 you can save a bit. It's sometimes hard to convince your penis to buy a lesser truck though.

Extended cab, manual, basic 4wd, and 4cyl. I have friends with those that get 24-27 mpg on the highway consistently.

My 95 T100 is supposed to get 190hp and and 220ft/lbs of torque. The new Tacoma 2.7 4cyl has 159hp and 180ft/lbs of torque. Weaker for sure but it's smaller than the T100. The new V6 is way more powerful than the old one, just way more engine than you realistically need for that truck.

Remember the 22r? I've had 3 trucks with that and I never worried about it. i70? That's what 3rd gear is for. Save some gas and some money. You can do it.

Rather than visiting dealerships send emails to them asking for a quote (including all fees, etc) for exactly what you want. If they are not willing to provided a price via email then try another dealer.

I just went through this whole exercise and there was over a 1000 dollars difference for the same truck between the three dealers I dealt with. Buy when you are ready rather than the other way around.

Don't buy from a dealer. Do not do it. I've worked in the industry for many years and the shit they pull is.. Just don't. Study up on the vehicle you want (mechanical issues, patterns of failure, etc.)- talk to people familiar with the repair of said vehicle and buy one from a private owner after giving it a good look over. You'll be much happier, knowledgeable and not supporting a very sick industry.

Check out this site: carbuyingtips.com/
Used information on this site to purchase 2 vehicles; saved close to $5K.

check out tacoma world

usually some good deals, or you could get some good ideas of other places to look.

edit:I love my tacoma

First you have to be realistic, Tacoma's are popular trucks with a good reputation and dealers know this, so there is no unbelievable price somewhere, there is however other factors like length of inventory, time on the lot, end of month quota etc. that may help. Know what you want then simply e-mail around for the best price. You might consider this, the Tacoma 4x4 comes without the TRD, a slightly smaller tire no locking rear axle but a limited slip instead, and without the Bilstein shocks. This is what I found and bought, but my preference was for the v6, 6 speed. I found mine at a dealer it was a year old and one owner. Visit Tacoma World there's all the info you could possibly want.

Check it out. TRD is way overrated, as is towing package. why you ask? here ya go: TRD is an additional $2,000+ and what you get is an after market suspension and computer locking rear diff. for that price, you can do your own ARB air locking diff (MUCH more reliable, the computer one is too picky about when it will let YOU use it) with an on board air compressor (super sweet for airing down on trails and then being able to air up your own tires when off the trail). Then you can get an amazing after market LIFT for a little extra. OME 2.5 inch lift is not stupid looking and is actually quite practical for some desert trail. This lift is referred to as the Cadillac of suspension and believe me, it is sweet and well worth the money. Tow package is the following: Oil cooler, Trans. cooler, receiver hitch. Unless you are towing at max weight everyday, those coolers wont even be fully active and you just paid almost $2,000 for those as well. Here is what I did: 08' Tacoma base model 4x4 v6 6 speed (like manual windows and manual locks kind of base). I put the OME 2.5 inch lift, on board air compressor, air locker rear diff., class 5 receiver hitch, ARB bumper with fog a drive lights, 1.5 inch wheel spacers so I could fit 285 75 16 tires on without any rubbing contact. this all cost me, including the price of the truck, 24,000 (truck had 50,000 miles when I bought it). Don't fall for the TRD packages, way way over priced. Save that money and build a truck that will always out do the the manufacturer packages. My truck just performs like a gem because I built it the way I wanted, not the way Toyota thought I would want it. here is a photo.

The only truck photo I have. Tower climbing in Moab.

Triple A (AAA) has a car buying service and you don't need to be a member. Just tell them what you want mileage price model year and they will look for your car, very simple. If you are in the Denver area I can give you a name and number, otherwise just call you local AAA.

The previous posters have good points. You'll likely be happier with a 4x4. I like my V6 but I tow a 2000 lb boat with it. Added the tow package myself. Sure used Tacoma's are hard to find, keep looking.

Stay away from the dealers unless you get that good email. Figure out your own financing and insurance.

John McNamee wrote:Rather than visiting dealerships send emails to them asking for a quote (including all fees, etc) for exactly what you want. If they are not willing to provided a price via email then try another dealer.

+1
This is what I did when I bought my Tacoma brand new in 2006. I emialed around and stayed patient until I found the EXCACT model/features I wanted at a Edmonds or KBB 'fair price'. I ended up paying $23,700 total (tags, taxes, fess, etc) and was quite happy.

When I totaled it in an accident 22 months and 20K miles later, the insurance company cut me a check for $21,000--remember I paid 23K. I am still amazed at how little the thing depreciated and that's why they're so expensive to buy used.

I was an internet sales manager for Toyota for a little over a year. We had used ones that would book up for more than a new one.

Where are you from? Avoid any mountain towns if you can, they're a premium there.

Don't be afraid to walk away. If you don't like the deal, stand-up, walk towards the door, tip your hat at the sales desk. MAKE SURE TO GRAB THE SALES SQUARE/E-PENCIL. They'll flip, get mad at the salesperson for being weak, and often do whatever they can to make the deal. Any other dealer, with a written quote in hand will beat it.

Offer invoice flat out. Dealers will still make $650 from holdback on a Tacoma. If they don't like it, make the offer again at the end of the month. Often times they'll whore out cars to meet their monthly goals, as it'll be more money to them in the long run.

Don't pay for VTR, paint protection, desert protection, ETCH, or any of that BS. Most dealers will put it on to make money. You can ETCH yourself for $20, most dealers charge $400 or more. Most of the time, if you get internet quotes, they will quote you a price, you'll get there, and they'll try to tell you that you have to get it since it's already been done to the vehicle. Walk away from thoses dealerships.

I'd say a 'fair' price for a Tacoma is invoice plus about $750 if the dealer is having a good month, invoice plus about $250 for a dealership that needs to hit volume goals. Keep in mind people's liveliehood depends on sales, and if you understand that, they'll be much happier to work with you. If you know what you want and they have it in stock, it'll be an easy deal for the salesman. Cooperate with them, tell them it'll take less than an hour while you're at the dealership, and most salesmen I know would be totally happy taking the typical $100 minimum for that level of work.

If you're anywhere near N AZ, I am still good friends with the internet manager for Toyota, and could get you in touch with him-- he'd be totally transparent, give you a great deal up front, and treat you really well. His job is to sell a ton of new cars, not to make money off of people.

Anyways,

PM me if you want anymore advice-- I've been dealing with those internet salees guys for too long... I know their games, haha.

Keep in mind that people's livliehood depends on selling cars, and the whole process. If you understand

A lot of good info from Jon ...

If you install your own locking diff. , like an ARB air locker , you can engage it in two wheel drive for extra traction without being in 4x4, with the TRD e-locker you must be in 4x4 low range gearing to engage it . The e-locker is also more likely to malfunction in deep water crossings.

Jon C. Sullivan wrote:Check it out. TRD is way overrated, as is towing package. why you ask? here ya go: TRD is an additional $2,000+ and what you get is an after market suspension and computer locking rear diff. for that price, you can do your own ARB air locking diff (MUCH more reliable, the computer one is too picky about when it will let YOU use it) with an on board air compressor (super sweet for airing down on trails and then being able to air up your own tires when off the trail). Then you can get an amazing after market LIFT for a little extra. OME 2.5 inch lift is not stupid looking and is actually quite practical for some desert trail. This lift is referred to as the Cadillac of suspension and believe me, it is sweet and well worth the money. Tow package is the following: Oil cooler, Trans. cooler, receiver hitch. Unless you are towing at max weight everyday, those coolers wont even be fully active and you just paid almost $2,000 for those as well. Here is what I did: 08' Tacoma base model 4x4 v6 6 speed (like manual windows and manual locks kind of base). I put the OME 2.5 inch lift, on board air compressor, air locker rear diff., class 5 receiver hitch, ARB bumper with fog a drive lights, 1.5 inch wheel spacers so I could fit 285 75 16 tires on without any rubbing contact. this all cost me, including the price of the truck, 24,000 (truck had 50,000 miles when I bought it). Don't fall for the TRD packages, way way over priced. Save that money and build a truck that will always out do the the manufacturer packages. My truck just performs like a gem because I built it the way I wanted, not the way Toyota thought I would want it. here is a photo.

99% of V6 Tacomas come from the factory with the towing package-- it's more like $1,100, too. Doing your own hitch with wiring is a few hundred. Sans Tow-package you will take a hit to resale value, too.

Also, if you're doing a lift, have the dealership do it. Most of the time if the lift fails, it'll be under warranty, but most dealerships are good about your warranty, and will look the other way a bit if you have other warranty work. If you did it somewhere else, they'll be more apt to deny you.

Don't get the TRD-- Don't get the usual lift, either. If you're going to be towing and offroading, get nice Fox, Toytech, or Procomp coiloivers up front, and AT LEAST add-a-leafs in the back-- new leaf packs would be most ideal. Then, if you're towing for long distances, you can loosen preload on the front so your nose isn't pointing in the air while towing.

Except for hardcore use, the onboard traction control, stability control, etc will do great until you get stuck. I always reccomended the Detroit Locker-- it's an Eaton unit that locks up when a wheel spins freely, and unlocks when you coast. Even easier and more reliable to use than the ARB stuff, and it costs $500 or so. Make sure to get better tires, too. The tires stock on a non-TRD Tacoma get mighty slippery quickly. Wrangler Duratracs for maximum tracion. Geolander AT-S if you want a good balance with fuel economy (if you get those, rotate the hell out of them the first 15k miles, though, or they'll get squaeky and ineven quickly)

Davis Stevenson wrote:I always reccomended the Detroit Locker-- it's an Eaton unit that locks up when a wheel spins freely, and unlocks when you coast. Even easier and more reliable to use than the ARB stuff, and it costs $500 or so.

Good advice in Stevenson's quote except that the Detroit is only good if you rarely drive ON road since it will have a lot of handling quirks that only hard core 4 wheelers are used to dealing with. The Detroit locks the rearend unless zero throttle is applied. Don't try accelerating out of a corner or you will get thrown all around. It is bulletproof, but made for people who are mud bogging or rock crawling 90% of the time and trailer their rig to the trailhead. ARB is a selectable locker so you can turn it off on the pavement.

Here is what I did to save about 4k on my 4runner. I live in Colorado so all Toyota products go for a premium. I found a salesman at a dealership that would shop the market for me outside of Colorado. We agreed upfront on a dealership markup and that I would pay shipping. I told him I was going to be picky and that I would not guarantee purchase until I had a chance to inspect the truck. The first one he brought in had all kinds damage to the undercarriage from the heavy salting they do in the NE. I passed on it. The 2nd one he brought in was pretty heavily abused by the previous owner so I took a pass. A few months went by and I did not hear from the salesman. Out of the blue, he called me up one day and said he found a good 4runner in AZ that was priced right and it was clean. He had it shipped up. I looked it over and ended up buying the rig. Finding a dealership that will do this for you and then waiting for the process to play out is not for everybody but it did work for me.

My neighbor got a good deal on a Tacoma by buying a late model one with really high mileage. He has owned it for 5 years now and has had 0 problems. He said the key to making that type of purchase is to find a seller that can document all of the work and maintenance they have done on the truck and then pay somebody you trust to look it over.

There is no way I would put a Detroit auto locker in the rear of my daily driver . Ever drive on icy / snowy roads with the rearend locked ? More pucker factor than a Tuolumne runout ...

TRUECAR.COM - Got my Suby new... and for like $4k off. Great deal/idea if you use it right... the dealers cowered when mentioned I had a true car cert for a price.

CJC wrote:3rd gear on I 70? lol NFW

Obviously you've never tried to climb up to the west side of the tunnel in an '89 Toyota pickup with offroad tires and a 22re.

Check out this site

truedealercost.com/invoice-…

you can look up what the dealer is really paying for a vehicle and not that dealer invoice bull $#!t.
we used that for our new 4runner. it cost a bit(maybe $35)but will save you a chunk of money. After we got the real cost of the vehicle we were able to talk the dealer down by almost $1,100.00. Once we know the cost that gave us some haggling power. and dont be afraid to haggle, its not in our American custum to haggle the best price but sack and and save you self some green.

Norse Force wrote: Good advice in Stevenson's quote except that the Detroit is only good if you rarely drive ON road since it will have a lot of handling quirks that only hard core 4 wheelers are used to dealing with. The Detroit locks the rearend unless zero throttle is applied. Don't try accelerating out of a corner or you will get thrown all around. It is bulletproof, but made for people who are mud bogging or rock crawling 90% of the time and trailer their rig to the trailhead. ARB is a selectable locker so you can turn it off on the pavement.

It's not that bad, I've driven a Chevy full-size with one in the rear axle and it wasn't bad at all... Just don't punch it mid-corner on ice. A little care and it's awesome.

just DON'T put one in the front. Torsen-style LSD or air, or electric selectable for the front.