Bolting Disco Inferno in Zion

BScallout wrote: Just for clarification you are not the Zion rock police or god. STFU, you only put up one crappy 5.7 that people do laps on b/c it's mostly 5.3 and they can 'tick' a Zion route. And do you live there Jersey?

No no, he has put up more than one route in Zion. for example --> mountainproject.com/v/the-m…

And yeah, Led by Sheep is an awesome route with an amazing summit!

BScallout wrote:Just for clarification you are not the Zion rock police or god.

Huh. I thought he was.

Ha ha.

Sorry everyone. My mommy and daddy didn't love me enough, hence the reason I lash out at people so long as I can remain completely anonymous. I'm just scared. I didn't mean to be a jerk.

Dan G0D5H411 wrote:I've found that a good paint job takes a little more than 3 minutes. Start with a self- etching primer, followed by a couple more coats of paint with ample time in between to let the layers fully dry before applying the next. This can take anywhere from a day to 3 days depending upon your drying conditions. The actual work time is minimal seeing as most of the time is spent waiting for coats to dry. Stainless I would worry less about since it already has a duller finish but plated hardware can shine like diamonds in the right conditions.

I have painted thousands of bolts and hangers. Really not that hard or time consuming. I try to camo everything to reduce problems with land managers and my own aesthetic. Really bugs me when I see a reflection that I know is an unpainted hanger. You might be surprised how far away you can be and still see the reflection. A standard rescue mirror is about the size of a 3X5 card.

Brian in SLC wrote: Most paints, unless you have the zinc rich stuff that's for a galvanized finish, don't stick to non-stainless bolt hangers. The paint "soapifies". Best to buy them pre-painted. Or, get them powder coated.

Just an FYI, Acrylic Latex spray paint will stick to galvanized hangers (non-stainless), then any other paint will stick to the Acrylic Latex. The cause of the "soapifying" of the paint are the alkyds in the spray paint but acrylic latex is not an alkyd based paint so it will not cause the saponification.

If you want to spray paint non-stainless hangers just spray a coat of acrylic latex paint as the primer, then use your normal spray paint for the finishing coats.

kennoyce wrote: Just an FYI, Acrylic Latex spray paint will stick to galvanized hangers (non-stainless), then any other paint will stick to the Acrylic Latex.

I've tried latex primers a few times. Seems to peel off easily. Can kinda work.

Easy for me now as I just buy stainless...

As stated above, bring a brush, not a can of spray paint. Overspray really looks bad.

I am planning on going up there and repeating the route this fall. If its not done by then I will bring up a brush and paint them.

John Hegyes wrote:As stated above, bring a brush, not a can of spray paint. Overspray really looks bad.

Actually... just bring a template.. ours is made form the cardboard of a sierra nevada 12 pack of cans, made a little cut in it the same shape as the hanger WALA! Perfect painted hangers everytime! That photo above is messed up... at the very least TRY to match the paint to the wall color - it almost looks as though the person was like well fine if I have to paint my hangers then im gonna do a shit job on purpose.

Steven if you need a partner for the fall I'd be glad to help you out.

Brian in SLC wrote: I've tried latex primers a few times. Seems to peel off easily. Can kinda work. Easy for me now as I just buy stainless...

The latex primer doesn't work all that well. Just use the plain old Latex Spray Paint and skip the primer. The H2O Krylon works well. I've used it on both PS and SS and it sticks better than anything else I've tried. Key is to give it plenty of time to cure and harden.

Krylon Latex Spray Paint

This is the stuff we use and it's great - it does chip a little though.

Matte Camo Spray Paint