Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 14,173 total · 52/month |
Shared By: | Julian Smith on Dec 30, 2001 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
Pitch 1 - there is a hard move, boulder problem really, that goes over a bulge and gets you up to a stance where the first bolt is. It would seem that either side of the bulge will go, but most people tend to favor the left side. Climb the rest of the pitch to the anchors.
Pitch 2 - edge past eight bolts up a superb slab to a notch on the left just below the top of the cliff. Notice the missing anchors on your right. You can go back along the ledge for 10 to 15' to a tree and belay. This tree can be rappelled from to get back down the west face. You can use 2 ropes or 1 rope with a little down scrambling. Or, continue over the top and belay from a tree about 30' back.
Use the standard Pinnacle descent if you go over the top.
Protection
P1: 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor plus stoppers and camming units up to mid-size.
P2: 10 bolts to a slung tree for an anchor for either the left exit (5.7), or straight up exit (5.9) and possibly [a few] small to medium piece above the belay.
Per Reggie Slavens: as a result of a recent serious accident, a bolt has been added to the 'left of the bulge' start option.
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