Washington Column Strategies: pros and cons.

Ok, I am planning for our first big wall experience, and after some considerations Wahsington Column seems like something that could yield a succcessful summit.
I have been hearing different stories. An oldtimer saying that if we can't do it in one big push day, big walling is pretty much is not my cup of coffee. A somewhat experienced couple is intending to fix lines on the first few pitches, then ascend to the natural ledge and bivi on the natural ledge to complete in two days.
I am not too keen on carrying a ton of gear up hill, so hiking up water to split the load and going as light as possible is gonna be pretty much mandatory. Although we are intending to bring the porta ledge. Do we really need it?
Any ideas and/or personal experiences? Does it get a lot of sun? Crowd ethics?

If suffering is not your gig, stick to grade III.

Three words- suffer, suffer, and suffer

I've done the South Face both via wall-style and in a single push. If your goal is to learn on the route so that you can do bigger walls, I'd definitely do the slower method.

When we climbed the wall over two days, we climbed easily enough up to Dinner Ledge (I think you can free most of it). Then we fixed two pitches above the ledge on that same day. I think these pitches are the technical crux of the route--the Kor Roof and the next pitch. Then we rapped down and slept on Dinner Ledge. We got up early, woke ourselves up with the free-hanging jug off the ledge, and continued to the top that day. There was no need for a portaledge.

The single day push was fun, but for us it involved the leader short fixing some of the pitches, which probably wouldn't be a good technique for a beginner.

Ryan N wrote:Three words- suffer, suffer, and suffer

as long as I get foot massage... ;)

South Face of the column is a nice route to do in a day if you are reasonably fast, lots of free climbing. Hauling would suck on lower pitches.
If you want to learn a lot then do the prow and take you time, easy hauling, much steeper and better route for aid climbing.

We did the South face in big wall style in 3 days. Day 1 we climbed to the top of pitch 4 and fixed, day 2 we did the next 3 pitches (I think) and finished the route on day 3.

We actually took a couple of days off between day 1 and 2 because of weather. The approach is a bear and the descent is no fun, especially exhausted and in the dark, but it is a cool experience. I was suprised at how little I ate.

If you do the south face, there's no point of a ledge, unless dinner ledge is super packed, and then you'd have a spot to sleep. I want to say that the route gets a fair amount of sun. I climbed it in the fall (october) and there was some traffic on the wall (both skull queen and the prow were being climbed and there was a party a day or two ahead of us on the south face) but it wasn't a problem.

We aided anything harder than 5.9 so we were a bit slower, if you can free 10's then you'll move a fair bit faster.

I thought you were going for el cap?

craghead wrote:Ok, I am planning for our first big wall experience, and after some considerations Wahsington Column seems like something that could yield a succcessful summit. I have been hearing different stories. An oldtimer saying that if we can't do it in one big push day, big walling is pretty much is not my cup of coffee. A somewhat experienced couple is intending to fix lines on the first few pitches, then ascend to the natural ledge and bivi on the natural ledge to complete in two days. I am not too keen on carrying a ton of gear up hill, so hiking up water to split the load and going as light as possible is gonna be pretty much mandatory. Although we are intending to bring the porta ledge. Do we really need it? Any ideas and/or personal experiences? Does it get a lot of sun? Crowd ethics?

The Column was my first wall as well. It's a fun route. I did it in the heat of July, which was brutal (we spent about 4 hours chasing shade on dinner ledge in the middle of the day). Our strategy was to fix to two pitches above Dinner Ledge and bivy on Dinner Ledge, then blast to the top without haul bags and rap the route. Rapping was only possible because nobody else was dumb enough to be climbing a south facing wall in mid-July. It wasn't that bad once we got higher on the route, and it was a very enjoyable way to climb, because we only had to haul to Dinner Ledge. We also got to avoid the walk off, which I'm told can be sketchy. If it's crowded, it's probably not a good idea to rap the route.

There is absolutely no reason to bring a porta ledge unless you're going unreasonably slow. Dinner ledge is an awesome bivy. Make use of it.

we area going vía Prow for hopefully less crouded

The ledge is huge and comfortable - leave the portaledge in the car.

scottthelen wrote:That ledge on the prow blows for a bivy

x2. Climbing the Prow without a ledge would likely leave you bailing in the dark or sleeping in slings. Plus the ledge is not until after 10 pitches (nearly all of which are aid), and if you can climb 10 pitches of aid in a day, you wouldent be on the Prow.

bailed misetably

approach strategy with heavy bags was something we neglected. First, over packed, did not scout the trail relyin on 40 min beta. Its not 40 minutes. The best would be to take a bus (like we did) from Curry, to Mirror lke trail head to cut down some of the flat hike. Then split the load to bring it to the base of the wall. Fix a rope on the 4th . Bivi at the base, then start the climb at first of sunrise before it heats up.
And it does get HOT! South face had 4 parties on and required 7 hr wait. Prow had no one on. We underestimated time and had to bail before even getting on it.
We have to keep going back and keep chipping at it.

craghead wrote:...had to bail before even getting on it.

Don't sweat it too much. Happens to lots of people. The biggest challenge in transitioning from a grade IV climber to a wall climber is the logistics and mind game, not the actual climbing...

Ed: my first attempt at a wall was a solo on the SFWC. Pulled the plug happy as a mofo after the nutting pitch. Learned a ton.

Sirius wrote: Don't sweat it too much. Happens to lots of people. The biggest challenge in transitioning from a grade IV climber to a wall climber is the logistics and mind game, not the actual climbing... Ed: my first attempt at a wall was a solo on the SFWC. Pulled the plug happy as a mofo after the nutting pitch. Learned a ton.

For sure. Since I am so used to going up trads, with almost sure summiting its hard to taken a slap on the face like that. I cried in frustration at the situation when we came so close yet to realize the lack of preparedness , angry at myself and my partner, the blame game... the whole shpeal. I remember the Tetons strategy , it has to be the same way here...strategy on tackeling this. Builds character....

Doing it in a day is fine if you have your systems dialed but for the first time wall experience I wouldn't even think of doing it that way. You're putting way too much pressure on yourself.

Go to Dinner ledge one day and fix the Kor roof and the next if you have time. Next day blast for the top. Go as light as you can and haul a small bag so you don't have to return to Dinner ledge to pick up stuff.

Rappelling is a good option if the route is empty but that is unlikely.

JLP wrote: As I predicted - too much talking, wanking and open display of weakness. Next time just stfu, htfu and do it.

yea yea yea I bring myself to the edge but im not going over it. We known what we need to work on . I aint bragging about it.

Don't worry man... thats how you learn. I bailed 4 times off the column before gathering enough skills to summit a much taller wall later the same season. Never did summit the column via aid routes but it was part of the journey for me and all one good laugh now.

Abel Jones wrote:Don't worry man... thats how you learn. I bailed 4 times off the column before gathering enough skills to summit a much taller wall later the same season. Never did summit the column via aid routes but it was part of the journey for me and all one good laugh now.

Thanx dude. I was more emotionally distraught about it than my partner. That said I wasn't gonna event try aid routes first season at the Valley. And was intimidated,by the cracks. Got to trad a solid clean 6, one pitch of a 7. Followed and felt good on a classic 8. I just get too emotionally engaged in a route a lot.