Backcountry camping/climbing

Me and a handful of flatland friends (all from Illinois) are heading to Colorado at the end of the week, and spending all next week there. Unfortunately none of us have gear, so we're limited to Sport climbing. I was hoping to find a handful of spots with a seriously long approach (3-5miles?) with backcountry camping at the crag. We were somewhat looking at the monastary because we plan on spending some time at RMNP doing some camping and hiking, but some other cool recommendations would be much appreciated!

thanks in advance
Dave

The Monastary is a good choice.. Camp at the crag and not at the open free area near the trailhead if you want the real backcountry experience..

I would also suggest checking out the South Platte. If you guys are limited to sport climbing check out Sheeprock. Its located in the Molly Gulch, Goose creek camping areas..
Ive camped and climbed here in the past and the climbing feels very remote, I felt like I was on a Grade III alpine sport climb.. Loads of fun.. Platte style bolting ofcorse..

Have Fun!

"a seriously long approach (3-5miles?)"
lol

+1 Monastery: Awesome spot. Plenty of climbs. Not exactly "backcountry". I don't recall any obvious places to camp, since the terrain is steep. But only been there once.

Jurassic Park is a really cool spot too, but even closer to the car.

I only call 3-5 long because it seems like most everyone on here is complaining about a 1 mile approach! With climbing and camping gear I would say we would be limited to a 10 mile hike but if there's anyplace that takes more that's worth it I'm all ears!

coldatom wrote:Jurassic Park is a really cool spot too, but even closer to the car.

JP is a really cool spot for single pitch sport... and I guess you could camp there since JP proper is on Forest Service land, but the approach is <1mi and only takes a fit person ~20min.

The camping would hardly be considered back-country either, as you can see town from up there... it does feel remote though. Bring water.

NOTE: If you try it, be sure to confirm that you can park in the Lily Lake parking lot overnight... as the parking lot and lake are in RMNP boundary. You hike out of RMNP on your way to Lily Lake.

Between RMNP and The Monastery is Jug Dome... it has a 20min hike also... and I guess you could camp there. <10 routes. Some routes need a 2rope rappel.

Mary's Bust is also right in there (park at mile marker 73), but only has a 5min approach, and no reasonable camping spot.

There is some sport also at The Crags ( mountainproject.com/v/the-c…), which has a strenuous ~hour approach. Not sure what the camping would be like.

J1. wrote:The Monastary is a good choice.. Camp at the crag and not at the open free area near the trailhead if you want the real backcountry experience..

+1... The trailhead area around Monastery is a disgrace to humanity. Trash, furniture, ammo everywhere... shady locals come up there and party ALL NIGHT on the weekends (believe me, we had to contend with it a couple of weeks ago)

There's some great backcountry camping around Independence Pass that would be close to some of the crags, although there's probably still a lot of snow up there...

I've been seeing that about the monastery. Sounds like quite a shame, there a place like that near me that I always spend an hour or two cleaning whenever I hike and don't seem to be able to catch up. We'll probably be camping on Sunday-monday night wherever we go so weekend traffic hopefully won't be a problem.

I ate lunch at lily lake last time I was out before a failed attempt at longs, after a rough night in the boulderfield it was quite serene down there.

Thank you all for your thoughts and recommendations! Hopefully next trip out I'll be able to plug gear and won't be so limited.

Jug dome sounds interesting is it a lot of roof climbing? Love some good roof jug climbing :)

Indy Pass is wonder full climbing area with lots of different options! Monitor Rock ( polished glaciated granite very alpine feel) on the East side of the range has lots of multi pitch And Single pitch trad and sport climbs with great free camping along the river. it's dry snow line in the area is about 11'000 feet Good rafting on the Arkansas as well if ya'll want to get a day on the river in and for the next week or so will be high water! The Aspen side of the pass is absolutely one of my favorite climbing/ craging areas in the state as well. Single pitch and multi-pitch climbs of all sort on wonderful granite. This area for the most part is good to go and yes you will encounter some snow in the Lincoln Creek are and Ptarmigan areas but is melting fast at this altitude.
South Platte would also be a place to look as well but most likely a good bit hotter! I would check out eleven mile cnyn wonderful climbing and camping in a nice little valley along a river with great granite climbing.
If you and your buddies want a more wilderness experience don't climb on the front range. The climbing is some of the best in the state but its crowded and it's a scene!

That sounds pretty great! I'm not too sure we'll be up for driving in that far. It's a 15 hour drive straight to Estes park area so it'd add another 5 or so? To get to Indy pass.. I'll push for it but I think that's going to be a group decision. Is there any particular camping along the river you're talking about? Or is it all just blm land or forest land? That really sounds like exactly what we want! Might have to skip some time doing other things to make room for that drive.

All the land in the Hwy 82 corridor of Indy Pass is Forest Service. The camping by Monitor is down by the river and is free on the Arkansas Valley side. Other sport climbing exist in this area as well along the Hwy 82 corridor. The Aspen side is in established campgrounds and is the typical pay scene not to expensive though.
Monitor Rock is about a long 2.5 half hour drive from Denver and to the Aspen side add another 30-45 minutes depending on the cragging area your headed to that day. Eleven mile Cnyn is about a 2.5 hour drive from Denver as well and is a State Park with a pay camping scene as well along the river. The area does have free Forest Service camping but then you need to drive every day and pay the State Park entrance fee. Both are amazing spots. Im sure you know that the drive time from Denver to Estes is about a 1.5 so its only about another hour and well worth it!