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Routes in Torreon
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Bitch's Brew T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Crossroads T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Estrellada (a.k.a. Mountain Momma) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sorcerer, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Voodoo Child T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wizard of Air T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mick Schein, Eric Whitbeck: 1995 |
| Page Views: | 2,528 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | John Kear on Dec 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
P1 climbs off a ledge with a tree, move up and right to a open book with a splitter finger crack on the left wall of the open book. Step from the corner into the finger crack and climb straight up to a ledge. Move up and right from the ledge traversing to another ledge and a nice hand crack leading straight up. When the crack ends step left and belay on a ledge, there is a bolt off the L end of the ledge 120ft 5.9.
P2 clip the bolt and step up and left off the ledge, this is a new bolted variation that 1)straightens the line and 2)avoids some of the choss of the original start to the 2nd pitch. After clipping the second bolt continue up and slightly left to a ledge system. From the ledge climb a superb shallow corner, step left after 30ft or so and traverse to a larger left facing corner system, follow nice cracks up to a ledge in a corner, there should be a nice 3" inch crack leading up off the ledge 130ft 5.10a.
P3 Climb the crack straight up off the belay to a ledge and continue up into a big left facing corner system. Climb the corner to a roof and turn the roof to the right. Belay a little higher at a bolt and good 2" crack 150ft 5.9.
P4 step right off the belay and do a delicate traverse right (crux) trending up and right into a shallow corner. Follow the corner to the top. Eventually you can either keep trending right to the top of Torreon or go straight up to a large ledge and good tree belay. The last 40-60ft of this pitch deteriorates into not so good climbing 150ft 5.10a.
Most of this climb is excellent and I think its one of the best climbs of its grade in the Sandias.
P2 clip the bolt and step up and left off the ledge, this is a new bolted variation that 1)straightens the line and 2)avoids some of the choss of the original start to the 2nd pitch. After clipping the second bolt continue up and slightly left to a ledge system. From the ledge climb a superb shallow corner, step left after 30ft or so and traverse to a larger left facing corner system, follow nice cracks up to a ledge in a corner, there should be a nice 3" inch crack leading up off the ledge 130ft 5.10a.
P3 Climb the crack straight up off the belay to a ledge and continue up into a big left facing corner system. Climb the corner to a roof and turn the roof to the right. Belay a little higher at a bolt and good 2" crack 150ft 5.9.
P4 step right off the belay and do a delicate traverse right (crux) trending up and right into a shallow corner. Follow the corner to the top. Eventually you can either keep trending right to the top of Torreon or go straight up to a large ledge and good tree belay. The last 40-60ft of this pitch deteriorates into not so good climbing 150ft 5.10a.
Most of this climb is excellent and I think its one of the best climbs of its grade in the Sandias.
Location
The climb is located about 200ft left of Estrellada (a.k.a. Mountain Momma). The climb starts off a ledge that is 40ft or so above ground level. If you approach Torreon via its standard approach gully you will pass right under Crossroads just before you would scramble over open talus to get down to the start of Mountain Momma.
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