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Lawn Darts
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 37 votes
Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m), Grade II |
FA: | Ron Cotman, Dave Bale, Gordon Briody - 2002 |
Page Views: | 5,218 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | smoothD on Apr 27, 2010 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
After climbing the first few pitches of Yard Art (mixed, 5.9), move belay 30 or so feet to a bolted belay ledge for Lawn Darts or the 4th pitch of Yard Art. From the belay, move up the slab on good friction and solid edges. Holds get a little thinner/more balancy as the angle increases. The crux is pulling a bulge 2/3 of the way up the route with good feet and thin holds. This is an incredible line with fantastic movement!
Location
The route is located on Peek-A-Boo Tower just to the right of Duty Dome and Warrior Wall. Park at a small pull off just east of Icicle Buttress on the south (River) side of the road. Directly across the road is a steep trail leading past some boulders and directly up to Duty Dome Area (visible from the road). 10-15 minutes up the trail is a fork to left for Fish Wall and to the right for Duty Dome, Warrior, Peek-A-Boo and Keen Acres. Another 10 minutes is another fork to the right for Keen Acres. Stay left and should arrive to the start of Yard Art in about 30 minutes (from road). Trail is clear, but beyond Fish Wall the trail is steep and full of scree and kitty litter (not good for dogs).
Protection
Although this route is bolt protected with solid gear and good spacing (12-14 bolts with anchor), you will need to climb the first few pitches of Yard Art (mixed, 5.9, gear to 3inches) in order to reach the belay. Pay attention to rappels as some of the routes are long (120' plus).
From Lawn Darts, you either need doubles to make it back to the belay or you need to make a short rap towards Peek-A-Boo tower in order to find an intermediate rappel station (solid gear). The last rappel of Yard Art is 120' but you can down climb the gully just to the right of the belay ledge.
From Lawn Darts, you either need doubles to make it back to the belay or you need to make a short rap towards Peek-A-Boo tower in order to find an intermediate rappel station (solid gear). The last rappel of Yard Art is 120' but you can down climb the gully just to the right of the belay ledge.
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