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The Dungeon Rock Climbing
Routes in The Dungeon
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5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big Excuse (Link Up) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Big Poppa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Daedalus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dungeon Traverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Front Stoop T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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If and Only If S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New Beginnings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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No Poppa (Link Up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Soaked in Intolerance (Link Up) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sugar Mama S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Waiting for the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 8,500 ft |
| GPS: |
39.5168, -105.3962 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 128,755 total · 920/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Morin on Oct 12, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This wall hosts a handful of long, mixed, trad, and sport lines. To get the most out of this wall bring a light rack and a kneebar pad or two. The wall stays shady until mid afternoon (some routes all day), and some of the routes remain dry in a downpour. While the rock is not as good as what is found in the Tan Corridor, the climbing is quite fun.
Getting There
Follow the Climber Access trail past the Permission Wall, and take the spur for the Tan Corridor/Dungeon. Hang a left at the first cliff you encounter, and follow that trail. Once you are at a obvious left switchback, stay right and follow cairn's to the base of the steep wall. The trail is well signed.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Dungeon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun & Shade
Sun Angles Details:
Routes Mostly Face: Northwest
Sunny Roughly 5pm to 8pm
during high season
6am
8pm
Weather Averages
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Prime Climbing Season
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Photos
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Guidebooks (12)
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