Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Greg Lowe, Kent Christianson, Rob Brown - 1967 |
Page Views: | 6,464 total · 43/month |
Shared By: | RKM on Nov 25, 2011 |
Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Greg originally rated this route 5.9+ and the line followed a deceptive path up the middle of the slab. Due to another route right next to it that shares the first pitch plus start of the second pitch, it seems that not many will repeat the original line or experience the original intent of this Greg Lowe masterpiece.
Some years ago writing on a thread for SuperTopo, Jeff Lowe had the following comment about 'Infinite'.
Hard Slab Climbs
Nov 30, 2006 - 06:11pm PT
In the sixties in SLC we had already drunk the Kool-Aid. . .My cousin George climbed the Dorsal Fin with long run outs between chickenheads to drill from. It's still rated 10d. It was my first climb of that sort, when George took me to repeat it in 1967. I just thought it must be normal. I also really enjoyed the need for concentration and steady nerves. . . Probably the hardest slab climb in the country in those days was my brother, Greg's route, Infinite, in the City of Rocks. Infinite had lots of 5.10 spice climbing, and a 5.11c crux fully 30 feet above the last 1/4" bolt. Kim Miller made the second ascent in the mid 'seventies and I repeated it afterwards. These may have been the only ascents of the route early on . . . .
Some years ago writing on a thread for SuperTopo, Jeff Lowe had the following comment about 'Infinite'.
Hard Slab Climbs
Nov 30, 2006 - 06:11pm PT
In the sixties in SLC we had already drunk the Kool-Aid. . .My cousin George climbed the Dorsal Fin with long run outs between chickenheads to drill from. It's still rated 10d. It was my first climb of that sort, when George took me to repeat it in 1967. I just thought it must be normal. I also really enjoyed the need for concentration and steady nerves. . . Probably the hardest slab climb in the country in those days was my brother, Greg's route, Infinite, in the City of Rocks. Infinite had lots of 5.10 spice climbing, and a 5.11c crux fully 30 feet above the last 1/4" bolt. Kim Miller made the second ascent in the mid 'seventies and I repeated it afterwards. These may have been the only ascents of the route early on . . . .
Location
Base of the Clamshell - upper City of Rocks. Pitch 1 goes over the roof at the lowest part of the wall (old bolt) and ends at what used to be a two pin (lost arrows) anchor. The original Lowe route goes left, undercling, and into a shallow grove that you need to step out of via a layback. Clip the bolt and head for a small tree. It gets steeper and steeper. The danger would be falling and sliding down the groove and tripping over the rope that crosses it.
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