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Iron Maiden
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 11
votes
Routes in Lighthouse Tower
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Iron Maiden T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Lonely Vigil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Northeast Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Poseidon Adventure T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Ed Webster Jeff Achey |
| Page Views: | 5,565 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Stevens on Sep 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Long considered one of the true desert tower testpieces. A little bit spicy, but well protected for the cruxes.
p1 12-. Do a long pitch that runs the whole gamut. This is a cruxy pitch. Climb a chimney and easy corner until it slams shut, requiring some hard (10+/11-) stemming and face climbing with pro at and below your feet. Get to a stance, pass a possible belay on your left and launch into the 12- business by a new bolt. Pass the bolt and then hand traverse right around the arete to a belay in the corner. Save some .75" to 1.5" pieces for the belay.
p2 11-. Do a hard, leftward hand traverse off the belay to some easier climbing up and left into a big right facing corner. Climb the steep hand and fist crack to a ledge. Save some 3 camalot size pieces for the belay.
p3 12-. Originally was protected by 3 pitons, they have since fallen out and the pitch is now protected by 2 bolts (retro bolted with First Ascensionists permission!). Short but hard, go straight up, then around the summit block to the right and finish via Lonely Vigil.
Remember you have to downclimb the summit! No rap anchors on top! Rap down the backside and then rap the notch towards the road and your packs.
p1 12-. Do a long pitch that runs the whole gamut. This is a cruxy pitch. Climb a chimney and easy corner until it slams shut, requiring some hard (10+/11-) stemming and face climbing with pro at and below your feet. Get to a stance, pass a possible belay on your left and launch into the 12- business by a new bolt. Pass the bolt and then hand traverse right around the arete to a belay in the corner. Save some .75" to 1.5" pieces for the belay.
p2 11-. Do a hard, leftward hand traverse off the belay to some easier climbing up and left into a big right facing corner. Climb the steep hand and fist crack to a ledge. Save some 3 camalot size pieces for the belay.
p3 12-. Originally was protected by 3 pitons, they have since fallen out and the pitch is now protected by 2 bolts (retro bolted with First Ascensionists permission!). Short but hard, go straight up, then around the summit block to the right and finish via Lonely Vigil.
Remember you have to downclimb the summit! No rap anchors on top! Rap down the backside and then rap the notch towards the road and your packs.
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