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Black Canyon, June conditions?

Original Post
Nick Barczak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 75

Hey all,

I haven't climbed in the Black, but a friend floated the idea to me about a week ago. We're headed out on a road trip to CA (starting mid-June) and thought maybe we could cruise through there and climb a route or two on our way. How are the temps mid-June? Blazing hot? Tolerable?
Any info would be great! Thanks!

EDJ Johnson · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 110

do Astrodog....that side has the most shade and the long days in june are nice for an involved route like this.. can be hot, bring extra h2o

Charles Vernon · · Colorado megalopolis · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,655

Astrodog gets done in the summer and seems to be thought of as a "summer" route, but I was surprised how much sun it gets. I've only climbed the top half but it seemed like we were in the sun all morning.

Some good north side routes would include Comic Relief/Escape Artist and anything else in that area, which all get shade until mid-afternoon. Stuff on the Great White Wall also gets shade for a similar period (but maybe these aren't good routes if you're looking for the "best" of the Black). Maybe someone can speak to the Prisoner of Your Hairdo routes, I haven't done those. I believe a Checkerboard Wall (morning) to Midsummer Night's Dream (afternoon) combo would maximize shade. You could sub Journey Home (one of the very best routes in the Black) for Midsummer's, but only if you're feeling confident and fast--that route seems to take everyone longer than they think it will.

John Peterson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 4,658

There are plenty of shady shorter routes. You can do Maiden Voyage or Casually Off without any sun problems at all. Comic Relief and Escape Artist have a lot of shade too. But you would probably bake on the Scenic Cruise.

Alton Richardson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 170

Just did Casually Off last weekend. Wore a light wind jacket most of the day. Go do it!!!

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willeslinger · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

I've climbed Mainden's Voyage in June and July, get an early start and it won't be too miserably hot.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

If anything, bring a lot of water - twice or thrice that you normally bring on long climbs. Worst case you can drink (dump) half of it after you hike down the canyon. Not sure if the air is super dry, or the constant allure of running water at the bottom, but I always feel extremely parched when climbing in the Black compared to climbing in higher peaks. If neither of you or your partner have climbed in the Black - it may take longer to find just the start of the route, let alone route finding on the climb itself...

k Wheeler · · Salt Lake City · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 227

Astro Dog is good in the summer, but you still have lots of sun in the AM. Hang extra water as you rap in, the long days are nice. All of the stuff on the Dragon Wall area is suppose to be nice summer routes (although i havent done them, they look like they would be good).

On the north side, you will want to climb in the gulleys, if you face the river you will cook. Lots of routes to do, but you want to play the shade game. The east facing walls go into the shade around 1 pm and the west facing walls start getting sun around 1 pm. Its fairly easy to climb the east facing shorter routes in Cruise Gully. Start down about noon, and you'll have 8 hours to climb 3 to 10 pitches in the shade. It is always cooler once you get off the ground.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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