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self rescue kit (how does this sound?)

Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80
john strand wrote:why carry a prussik ? sling do almost as well and you already have them.
With so many people shifting to majority-Dyneema slings they aren't nearly as useful as plain old nylon accessory cord.
Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

A prusik might be useful one day but no need to carry it tied to your harness. Use cordage to hold your chalk bag.

Slings don't work as well as cordage when using a prusik.

Dan Felix · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 35

I see the desire to have cordage for prussiks, but I have to ask- are any of you familiar with a "split tail" used in arboriculture? If you need to ascend a line and don't have any other means, using a split tail method would get it done if you know how. Granted it would take a few minutes to untie the rope and retie to rig, but if it saves you from an epic............

wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

When I read the directions for my tiblock it emphasized how important it was to use an oval biner to prevent rope damage.

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

I swapped the back rest in my pack for a folded up car sun visor I got at the dollar store. It's basically an e blanket with a foam layer.

I also figured out how to knit a a rope into netting so it can make a blanket or a pad or a hammock. Its pretty easy and quick, you just use your arms as giant knitting needles.

And I also tape a razor blade into my helmet. It has so far been the most useful emergency item.

wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10
DannyUncanny wrote:I swapped the back rest in my pack for a folded up car sun visor I got at the dollar store. It's basically an e blanket with a foam layer. I also figured out how to knit a a rope into netting so it can make a blanket or a pad or a hammock. Its pretty easy and quick, you just use your arms as giant knitting needles. And I also tape a razor blade into my helmet. It has so far been the most useful emergency item.
Razor blade on helmet? You just saved me some bucks :) thanks!
Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315
rging wrote: A hat will do just as good and you can get them so light now that you can stuff it into the top part of your helmet above the suspension or in your pocket and not even know its there.
Nope.... basic science would actually disprove that. But anecdotally, I have been benighted on cold nights with and without a space blanket and I'll tell you from personal experience that a space blanket does quite a bit more for you than a warm hat.

+2 for the space blanket, though space blanket + hat=ideal.
Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80
wankel7 wrote:When I read the directions for my tiblock it emphasized how important it was to use an oval biner to prevent rope damage.
On the TIBLOC web page it says:
"For use on single 8-11 mm ropes with a locking carabiner having a 10 to 12 mm round or oval cross section, such as the Am’D, ATTACHE, WILLIAM, etc.)"

On the PDF is says:
"Always use the TIBLOC with a locking carabiner. Make sure your connectors are compatible with the rope clamp (shape, size, etc.). Advice: the carabiner shape and cross-section play a significant role in the jamming of the rope. For optimal function, a round cross-section is preferred."
William Domhart · · Ventucky, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 5
Dan Felix wrote:I see the desire to have cordage for prussiks, but I have to ask- are any of you familiar with a "split tail" used in arboriculture? If you need to ascend a line and don't have any other means, using a split tail method would get it done if you know how. Granted it would take a few minutes to untie the rope and retie to rig, but if it saves you from an epic............
What's this "split tail" method? Never heard of it, but I see new stuff all the time from canyoneers and spelunkers...
Marty C · · Herndon, VA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 70
William Domhart wrote: What's this "split tail" method? Never heard of it, but I see new stuff all the time from canyoneers and spelunkers...
A split tail is a piece of equipment usually used by arborists, tree climbers and industrial riggers.

It is a length of rope with an "eye" on one end and the other end "free".

The "eye" is clipped to your harness with a biner and the rope is then tied around the climbing rope using a friction hitch (there are the usual climbing friction hitches, but arborists could also use their own esoteric friction hitches).

I'm guessing the suggestion to use this system would allow one to ascend even in a desperate situation. Never having done it, I would imagine one could use the climbing rope as a split tail to ascend the rope. Untie the climbing rope from your harness; retie into the climbing rope with a much longer tail (2 to 3 feet) and use that as the "split tail" to form a friction hitch attachment to the climbing rope.

Not sure I would ever need to do this, as I always have slings and/or prussic cords when I climb.
William Domhart · · Ventucky, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 5

Interesting idea. Might give it a go at the gym later to see how it works in practice. Its trippy the different rope techniques and tools that arborists, spelunkers and canyoneers use versus those of climbers.

DannyUncanny · · Vancouver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 100

I've tried using a rope to prussik itself but have never found a knot that will work with identical diameters.

Marty C · · Herndon, VA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 70
DannyUncanny wrote:I've tried using a rope to prussik itself but have never found a knot that will work with identical diameters.
I believe a Blake's hitch will work with same diameter ropes. It is an arborist's friction knot.

Www.animatedknots.com has a video showing how to tie it.

It looks a little like an auto block, but has a "locking" feature added to the hitch.
Dan Felix · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 35

Marty pretty well explained it. The split tail evolved from what Marty described. I can't remember what the original method was called though. You need to have a decently supple rope to do it. For years, a taut line hitch was standard, any time I'm in a tree though I'm using a Blake's hitch. It's not something that everyone will use all the time but it's certainly something that could and should be added to your box of tricks.

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

You mentioned that you carry a prusik as a rappel back up and that you think having a second would be nice. I carried one as a rappel backup myself; and having the same thought you did about needing two for efficient ascension of a line I started carrying two. I actually just have a prusik on each leg loop of my harness, so they are always there no matter what, just in case. Luckily I've only needed them as a rappel backup but I like to have them there.

Daniel Evans · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

I think it was mentioned above, but (2) 20 ft. 7mm cordalettes, (2) nylon 24" slings or 3.5-4 ft. of 5-7mm cord for prusiks, (6) locking carabiners (include 2 large pear biners such as BD Rock Lock that are munter compatible) will get you out of 99% self rescue situations. I would only carry these items on a multipitch route, as any single pitch climb you can lower your second/escape the belay and seek help with much less at your disposal. The weight doesn't bother me. One thing to consider is if you find yourself in a situation where you are multiple pitches up and need to rig multiple tandem rappels, that second cordalette will be nice to have to build a rappel anchor as well. I like to carry more because I have to worry less. And when I have 0 worries, I'm generally enjoying myself a little bit more.

By personally taking self-rescue lessons through a private guide I not only learned how to do everything, but I learned all the fundamentals. Most important thing is to know the fundamentals so you can apply them to any situation you find yourself in. Because no two situations are ever going to be the same or controlled as you might find in a practice scenario. So if you haven't and are unsure of your abilities, I'd highly recommend taking private lessons. I went through Vertical Adventures in Joshua Tree (Recommend Erik Kramer). Money well spent that's for damn sure.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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