Daks Beta

Despite being an East Coast trad climber my whole life, I've never been to the Daks. It's shameful, and it needs to change. So, this weekend, I'm going. I'm gonna go get the new guidebook today, but I was hoping to mine some of your brains for ideas on where to go. I understand the Daks is huge, and I don't want to spend the whole weekend driving around, trying to tick every classic area I can find.

I'm going up with my girlfriend, and we're looking for a slightly laid back (but secluded and quiet) weekend. We'll be there from Friday night to Tuesday, so we have a solid long weekend. We'd love some place with good, easy camping (i.e., no hiking in) nearby enough climbing to entertain us for the whole weekend. We'd also love to avoid any approach longer than about 45 minutes, unless that eliminates too much of the best climbing. I lead 5.10 on gear; she can follow 5.8-5.9 and would hop on 5.10 if it were single pitch.

What do you guys think? Where should this Daks first-timer go?

(I will say, I've always wanted to climb Roger's Rock. I wouldn't mind driving there for one day to tick that, but I don't have a good sense as to how far that is from other good climbing.)

(Also, anyone been up there recently? How are the conditions (wetness, bugs...)? Any closures I should be aware of?)

I am in the same boat mostly re the dAks- I have done Rogers and it's GREAT - if you have a boat. It's mellow and fun but you can boil on a hot day on that slab... did I mention you need a boat?

Keene Valley has several cool crags in a relatively compact area and you can always stop by The Mountaineer for additional beta. There's a little bit of free camping a couple of miles south on 73. Spider's Web is one of the coolest areas I've climbed! There's also Poke-O-Moonshine mountain not too far away.

Roger's Rock is not easily accessible without a boat. So scrap that (definitely worth the boat ride though).

Keene Valley and in particular the Chapel Pond area has the greatest diversity and concentration of climbing within walking distance of a single point. Keep in mind Memorial Day is BUSY everywhere, so expect lots of other climbers taking advantage of the three day weekend. I've spend days doing stuff from a single point parked near Chapel Pond. Only climbing ability will limit your fun there.

There's free camping if you look around, check dirt roads, etc. Unfortunately this used to be a guarantee, but the internet has made these 'known' spots, so you may want to plan to be sleeping pretty close to other campers as it can get crowded. While we are friendly, you won't find a lot of us ADK climbers giving you detailed camping information (as you/someone reading this may end up taking OUR spot when we need it lol).

not knowing anything about your climbing ability i'll throw out a couple of Keene Valley crags/areas that are in the general vicinity to give you an idea of what pages to look up once you get the guidebook.

Chapel Pond slab- long mellow runout slab

Creature Wall- Single pitch cracks w/ short approach across the way from the Slab

Jewels and Gems- Small single pitch crag with short approach a little ways down the road (south) from the Slab on the opposite side of the road. Cracks/face

Spanky's area- bit further past Jewels with various face and some crack. A few bolted routes.

Spiders Web- Before Chapel Pond Slab (north) which are more stout (mostly 9 and up) slightly overhanging cracks.

Beer Walls- Across the road from Spiders that tends to be consistently one of the busiest places on holiday weekends.

About the only area around their I'd think about avoid due to the crowds is the Beer Walls

Thanks for all the quick replies! I think I've got a handle on Keene Valley, and that seems to be the most popular place (for good reason, it seems).

Let's pretend we wanted to get off the beaten path a bit, given that it's Memorial Day. Any suggestions for other areas that might not be as crowded? Still looking for easy car camping, but I don't care if we have to drive like 10 minutes to the crag from the campsite.

EDIT: For instance, is the "Cascade Lakes" region any less crowded than the Chapel Pond area? They seem close to one another. Camping any better/easier at Cascade Lakes? What about the Lake George area? Sleeping Beauty looks cool (on MP, at least), and maybe we'd splurge and rent a boat to climb Roger's Rock for a day.

Cascade lakes has limited though quality climbing compared to Chapel Pond. There's really no camping spots there (that I'm aware of).

Lake George has a lot of climbing but I wouldn't consider it destination worthy climbing. Scenic and varied - yes, to some degree. Awesome? Multipitch? Not really. Plus the roar of boats all day can get... annoying. Certainly doesn't add anything to the climb.

No, I won't tell you where I would go this weekend (to get away from crowds and to car camp). Because that's what I'M doing! :p

Potter Mountain/Silver Lake would be right up your alley. Secluded, 45 minute approach, lots of 8's, 9's, 10's Beta is on the adirondack rock website. Not sure about camping options though.

PeterW wrote:Potter Mountain/Silver Lake would be right up your alley. Secluded, 45 minute approach, lots of 8's, 9's, 10's Beta is on the adirondack rock website. Not sure about camping options though.

Plus the (extra) longish drive. It's a haul from anyplace south and east. I've been told things are still getting established there (climber's paths, etc). Finding the bottom of routes is still challenging for those who aren't familiar. Maybe it's improved since I last spoke with someone about it (Fall 2012).

If open, there's a NYS DEC campground across the road.

dec.ny.gov/outdoor/24498.html

Thanks for all the info! This will be a great help to me and the g/f. Looking forward to an awesome weekend.

Falcon closures definitely need to be checked out. Last I heard, all the Washbowl walls at Chapel Pond are closed, as is a big part of Poko.

To get a good feel for the ADK climbing flavor, I'd suggest that you plan on moving around a bit from day to day. If you want all the action out of the same area, well yea, that's probably Chapel Pond. Which is precisely why it gets so busy. You'll need to do your homework, but I would suggest instead that you hit a few different areas: maybe start with Shanty cliff (15 min approach) for a day, then Bark Eater Cliff (20 minutes). Then maybe relocate to the Indian Lake area and take a combo hike (2 hr) and sport climb day on Snowy Mt.

Bear in mind that the ADKs are essentially equal parts rock and water, so if the forecast says "chance of showers" you're going to get wet. It's all part of the experience. Come back in September-October if you want nice dry weather. :-)

Check out deadwater. Poke-o just opened up a little; the right half of the cliff is closed, leaving fastest gun and eveything to the left open.

Even on a busy weekend, beerwalls would probably be good. Upper washbowl is open now, i'm just not sure if there will be others up there. If you're up to the challenge, Spider's web is awesome.

Also look at hurricane crag and quadraphenia.

I'm not sure how close roger's rock is to sleeping beauty, which i wouldn't recommend to the outsider's first time visit. It's good, but Shelving Rock, just down the road, is better. However, a big part of that is closed for falcons.

Start with easy stuff to get a feel for the grades, they can be a little stout.

You've got a lot to choose from and i'm not sure which i'd start with. I think i'd leave it up to my partner, that's how indifferent i am about it; it's all good, it jsut depends on what your type of climbing is.

Thanks, everyone!

Does anyone have any recent info on black flies? I know it's the height of the season now, but also that this year has been better than most.

They spray around chapel pond, I was up there last weekend and encountered maybe 10 in 2 days. Other crags (crane, shanty, anything in the southern adk's) I would avoid. The will carry you away.

Oh, interesting. Thanks, Peter; good to know.

That's one of the reasons I didn't recommend Crane, which is probably my single favorite place to climb in the ADKs. The black flies there are not for the faint of heart. The further north you go the later they come out too, and they're just getting started in the Chapel Pond/High Peaks area. Don't be fooled though, bring bug dope and use it anywhere you climb in the ADKs. It's just a matter of degrees.

If you narrow down your choices don't hesitate to ask for recommendations or route specific beta. :)

Cough Cough...great camping below CP slab and just down the road at the so called "climber's camp," on the left side of 73 as you're driving from 87 towards KV. Also, great free camping at the South Meadows before the LOJ parking.

This might be a nice weekend to get out and enjoy a backcountry day on Big Slide (5.9/5.7 bolted slab routes), Snowy Mtn, maybe the SF of Gothics (not sure about conditions there right now.)

I definitely recommend the Chapel Pond area if you want diversity. Maybe check out the King Wall on the other side of the mountain from the slab. 4 pitch 5.7 called Prince that might be less popular/busy on a weekend like this.

Camp wherever ye desire, as long as it's 150 feet from a trail, road, or water source.

Excellent beta. Thanks everyone!

I think we're gonna spring for one of the pay sites near Keene. Obviously they're pricey, but we're trying to keep this mellow and pleasurable for everyone involved, which includes not having to look around for a spot at midnight when we show up and being near running water and toilets. Also, I'm looking forward to a fire. Since this is my girlfriend's first multi-day climbing trip, I'm trying to keep us both very happy and coming back for more.

There's a lot of great info on the Keene area on this site, but if anyone has any personal favorite routes (anything that you think is a "can't miss"), speak up. Hopefully we'll do some of the longer stuff, even if it's a bit easier (Chapel Pond Slab, Upper Washbowl), as well as the shorter stuff (Barkeater and Beer Wall, if it's not too crowded). Maybe if I feel up to it once I get used to the climbing, I'll try some stuff on the Spider's Web.

If we wanted to try some more alpine stuff, would Gothics be a good choice? Seems relatively close by (driving, not hiking, which I understand there is plenty of to get there).

Gothics is supposed to be superb slab, but there could still be runoff as the snow is in the final stages of melting away at elevation. It's also a long hike and some bushwhacking to get there. If you're looking to keep it friendly, stick to stuff directly off trail (compared to Gothics... Big Slide, Rooster Comb, Giant, and Noonmark are easier access and 'backcountry'). The smaller the mountain the less chance this week's rain and snow melt will be a factor on the wetness.

Chapel Pond slab is tons of fun, done it several times. If you're experienced on slab you could simul-climb or solo it. The Empress is a slightly harder route on the left, probably not something I would solo (although the 5.5X pitch is effectively a solo, which can be avoided climbing to the left at 5.4PG).

I wouldn't avoid the Beer walls, as there's some stellar climbs there. An early start aiming for the 'best' climb of the day there will likely get you on it, then you can hop on whatever is available after that, or head elsewhere. Rockaholic is a stout and excellent 5.8 there. But even easier stuff like Afternoon Delight is worth doing, and there's great stuff on the right side like a 5.9 layback corner (Frosted Mug) that's considered one of the best climbs in the Chapel Pond area (sans the 5.6R start). The nearby 5.7 Labatt-ami is good, despite a crappy start.

mountainproject.com/v/frost…

Prelude to Overture on the Upper Washbowl cliff is supposed to be awesome, on my to-do list. Hesitation is supposed to be good as well, so it's a worthy climb to jump on if there's a wait at Prelude. I've only done the Weissner route up there, which is pleasant and easy.

On an 'off' day you could single pitch climb at the Creature walls, which as previously stated has some of the better single pitch cracks in the CP area. Jewels and Gems is also a good way to spend an afternoon. NCCC (5.6 1 pitch crack climb) is excellent, but there's a few climbs there worth doing.

In general, if you look for 2+ star climbs in the guide (and check their goodies section on their website for new routes and changes) you can't go wrong. Most 4 star climbs I felt are worthy, and many 3 stars are personal favorites (including The Prince that Ben mentioned).

It rained like hell here last night and looks like more on the way before the weekend so look for stuff that dries quickly. Frosted Mug area, Tilmans Arete, some routes on the Upper Washbowl. Also check out Pitchoff, it dries quick, gets morning sun and is great for parties of differing abilities (think multi-pitch 5.7/8s and great single pitch 10s).

Creature Wall is great, Jewels And Gems is great, Tanager Face is good when dry, Deadwater is good. The roues on Chapel Pond Slab are fun and can be done quickly at the end of the day.

If you can crack climb the Spiders Web isn't nearly as bad as its reputation. Give the cracks a day to dry and if you're leading 5.10 elsewhere routes like On The Loose, TR and Slim Pickens won't feel too bad and all can be easily toproped once led.

Beer Walls can be enjoyed on the busiest of days by simply avoiding the super-popular routes that get a ton of toprope traffic. I've showed up after work when the parking lot if full and gotten on great lines like Tequila Mockingbird, Blacksmith (one of the best .10a face climbs anywhere) and Turbocharge, all deserted. Same goes for the Barkeater Cliff.

In my opinion hiking all the way to the left end of the King Wall for The Prince isn't worth it unless you're up there to climb something else. Some of the new variations (i.e. King And I) are reportedly good but I haven't done them. Better to check out Quadrophenia at Hurricane or Hesitation at Washbowl. Although it's probably going to be hopelessly wet this weekend put Butterflies Are Free to P2 of Partition on your list for a future visit.

Pok-O and Silver Lake are both amazing (too many great routes to even start naming) and a reasonable drive from the Keene area but I think you'll find plenty to do on your first trip right here.

Feel free to PM me if you want anything more specific or if you want my always changing top 10 list of routes you'll never see anybody on.

To me, this thread is a perfect example of what MP is all about. Thanks so much for all the beta, guys. It will definitely go to good use.

Thanks again, all!