Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Middle Spire
|
Anal Sex T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
|
Beautiful Let Down T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Candyass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Clam, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Cockabooty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Corn Flakes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Fancy Dancin' T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hard Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Harding's Other Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Lean And Mean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Leaner and Meaner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Penny Candy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Prow, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Rain Song S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Slowdancer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Tyro's Test Piece T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,621 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Johnsen on May 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Description
The usual route follows a crack system up a dihedral. Many variations are possible, with jams, stemming and face moves available. Above the dihedral, step left over a couple of ledges and humps to protect it well, then finger traverse back right to the anchor using a crack under a roof. Alternately, go direct from the end of the dihedral to the anchor.
Location
West side of the Middle Spire. As you hike from the parking lot, it's the big left-facing dihedral just left of Over Easy's detached flake and roof.
Most people start the route higher than ground level. From the trail, scramble up a short (10 feet?) class 3 ramp to a comfortable ledge where the dihedral goes vertical. Belaying a leader is better here, but you might stay on the ground if belaying topropes.
Lower or rap off the anchor.
This is a natural first pitch to reach the start of the Prow, if you're looking for an adventurous line to the top of the Spire.
Most people start the route higher than ground level. From the trail, scramble up a short (10 feet?) class 3 ramp to a comfortable ledge where the dihedral goes vertical. Belaying a leader is better here, but you might stay on the ground if belaying topropes.
Lower or rap off the anchor.
This is a natural first pitch to reach the start of the Prow, if you're looking for an adventurous line to the top of the Spire.
1 Comment