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Routes in 1. The Cosmic Crag
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Baby Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cosmic Amazement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gravitational Mass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Here Come the Jugs T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sidereal Motion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Paul and Andy Ross Aug 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,878 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jun 1, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
The trick is protecting in a way that doesn't use your intended hand hold on the crux.... I used a finger-sized cam in the key, hand hold which left room for the hand....
Basically you start up a delicate corner till you need to move left to get in to the layback corner.... At this point you fish in a piece of gear and move left using a very uncomfortable handjam (though I've heard of other ways to do it, the jam feels secure, if painful)....
After that, it's a breeze up the corner with good gear, good jams, and cruiser layback moves (this section makes you wish the route was longer) to the top.... Belay from gear, or way back to a good tree....
Basically you start up a delicate corner till you need to move left to get in to the layback corner.... At this point you fish in a piece of gear and move left using a very uncomfortable handjam (though I've heard of other ways to do it, the jam feels secure, if painful)....
After that, it's a breeze up the corner with good gear, good jams, and cruiser layback moves (this section makes you wish the route was longer) to the top.... Belay from gear, or way back to a good tree....
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