Type: Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Darren Knezek, March 2008
Page Views: 3,786 total · 19/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 24, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

An exciting, very enjoyable three-pitch route that ascends a quartzite buttress on the north side of Rock Canyon. The route starts on the typically broken and crumbly light-colored rock above the layer of Mineral Fork Tillite, but continues on solid, good quality quartzite for the second and third pitches. In fact, on the third pitch the rock is quite interesting with obviously ancient, well-weathered quartzite with rounded edges interspersed with sections with sharp edges from more recent erosive events.

P1 (5.10a, 70') Starts on the crumbly, shattered, white quartzite with a mildly tricky move past the first bolt and then big jugs on slightly overhanging to not-quite-vertical rock to a ledge at a midpoint anchor (the fifth bolt). The rock looks suspect, but is actually surprisingly solid. Continues past the midpoint anchor through two more bolts on lower-angled terrain to a red-colored hangers-and-rings anchor on a ledge.

P2 (5. 10c?, 60') Start twenty feet right of the top of the first pitch under a sloping roof with a couple of rounded, undercut tiers. The bolts are painted black. Getting off the ground, clipping and getting past the first two bolts is the crux with poor feet, sloping sidepulls, a couple of sucker pockets, and some hidden jugs. However, even after getting above the second bolt it isn't over. The move past the third bolt is also difficult (at least if you are of average height) but not nearly as difficult as the start. After the third bolt continue on solid, quality quartzite to a ledge with a hangers-and-rings anchor.

P3 (5.10a, 60') Head up to the left of the anchors on a thought-provoking, but juggy and solid overhang to the first bolt. Continue on mostly jugs on interesting, solid, reddish quartzite to a point under a roof. The move to get to the bolt just underneath the roof is committing but solid. Continue over the roof and up to another small overhang just before the top. The anchors are just over the top.

Protection Suggest change

P1 7 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors. There is also a midpoint anchor at bolt 5.
P2 7 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors.
P3 9 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors.

Location Suggest change

This route starts on the southwest facing part of the large buttress containing Bad Bananas and Super Bowl. Approach the main part of Bad Bananas (below the huge roof) and continue west on a trail below the exposed Mineral Fork Tillite (the greenish-gray-brown rock). After turning the corner head up hill along the base of the tillite and scramble up a short, tillite ramp to the base of the climb.

Descent Suggest change

Three single rope rappels with a 60m rope will get you to the base. You can leave your packs, etc., at the base of the approach ramp since the last rappel can take you below the approach ramp if you choose.

Photos

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