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Routes in (c) The North Buttress
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Hubris T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lip Up Fatty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lip Up Fatty, Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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North Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Stroll Around the Block T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tank Mechanic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Uneventful, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | Harry Daley, Yvon Chouinard, C. Butler, and Dan Doody, October 1959 |
| Page Views: | 9,383 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is the longest route at Tahquitz, starting at the lowest point and finishing on the summit. There is quite a lot of nice climbing along the way. Follow the left of the two shallow ridges that make up the base of the North Buttress, going up crack systems that gradually get more difficult (to about 5.4) as they change into a left-facing corner system. After four or five pitches from the ground, this leads to a series of broken ledges with two large trees. The upper tree has a J shape near the bottom, and marks the upper part of the route (you can belay from a large seat formed by the bottom of the J). The next pitch is nearly vertical, and the crux of the climb. It follows a corner - a crack in the back ranges from one to six inches in width. After two small overhangs, you go around a corner to the right and onto easier ground. A few easy pitches lead to the top of the rock.
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