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Middle finger knuckle pain. I looked and couldn't find the same description anywhere.

Original Post
dylandylandylandylan anddylan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 107

For the last couple weeks I've had a mild soreness in my middle knuckle of my middle finger. Everything I've seen online points to maybe being a stress fracture, but the pain is pretty mild compared to a stress fracture I had in my foot once, and there is no swelling or coloring. I've been taking it pretty easy, took a week off and now climbing only easy stuff and taping the joint. I can feel it the most in half open crimp position-no thumb, first joint flat. Also, I'm pretty sure I can pinpoint when it started, I was working a tough -for me- problem at the gym, with a stab to a two finger crimp rail as a gaston, then twisting over to get my thumb under it as a pinch and locking off.

It's definitely not bad enough to stop me from climbing, but it's not great and I've got a trip coming up in about a month. Anyone have any suggestions/similar injuries?

Freddy Brewster · · Humboldt, Ca · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 40

i have the same pain in my left middle finger. mine happened while pulling on an over head pocket. i did hear a pop with mine tho so i think i may have partially tore a ligament. i just tape the area between the middle and top knuckle and the area between the middle and bottom knuckle and that seems to help ALOT.

Peteoria Holben · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 60

Does it hurt pulling on ice tools? Generally each finger has plenty of support against the tool and may offer a solution to being able to pull hard while still recovering.

Crimping offers zero support for your fingers and all the stress is placed on the tendons. Gripping a tool is kind of the opposite effect as all the pressure is transfered right into the tool.

If it hurts to grab a tool then you're dealing with more than a hurt finger pulley. Either way, silly putty is a great way to rebuild in a safe manner. If you have good insurance, a Doc / PT will hook it for free, otherwise Neptunes's sells it for like $7

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

If you place your palm flat down on a table and push down with your middle finger flat against the table, do you get an awkward sensation/pain over the top of your knuckle on the lower portion?

Well if you do PLEASE let me know what you figure out...

I've been going on years with this and no specialist has been able to diagnose accurately. Also when it swells up slightly if I try to make a tight fist I get excruciatingly sharp pain in the top of said middle finger, like 9/10 screaming pain. When no swelling, no pain. Climb crimp above V7 i get swelling, awkwardness, and said pain. As a result I have become great at managing the problem never know what exactly it is...

Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 605

Hey Captain, I had the same thing in my left ring PIP. Started from doing heinous tip ring locks. Hurt most when I extended the finger all the way. Turned out I had something stuck under the hood of the PIP joint.

The injury happened in late May. Everything I tried (bloodflow therapy, massage, meds (even bullshit eastern ones)) made zero difference. Frustrated, I decided to climb a bit in late fall and get surgery during the winter. Turned out that was enough to get what ever that was out from under it. Back to 100% now. Somehow I climbed it off.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

Ryan, so you didn't have the surgery? Did you get an MRI and were they able to see the issue? Did you ring finger feel mostly fine just swollen until you tried to close it tightly and then u'd get the pain on the top of the knuckle? How do you know something was stuck if you didn't proceed with the surgery?

I had trigger finger at like 17/18 and had a cortisone shot in each finger... The dr then bent (or rather snapped) my fingers back in place. I swear since then they've never been the same and it certainly feels (when I get the ice pick sensation) that it's almost as if something is stuck in the knuckle so I have reason to think u may be on to something. Unfort it happens on both fingers so I have trouble thinking I have debris in each knuckle but you never know. Really what i need is to wait until they blow up and then get an MRI...

dylandylandylandylan anddylan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 107

Ryan, that's exactly what I wanted to hear even if It's not the same injury I have. I forgot to say I didn't hear a pop, didn't notice the pain until the next day, does.t hurt from flat hand on table or fist. What hurts the most is actually pulling the funny door handles on my Volvo 240.

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945
dylanfllr wrote:Ryan, that's exactly what I wanted to hear even if It's not the same injury I have. I forgot to say I didn't hear a pop, didn't notice the pain until the next day, does.t hurt from flat hand on table or fist. What hurts the most is actually pulling the funny door handles on my Volvo 240.
could just be a funny strain...
Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 605

Sorry I didnt make with the details. I saw several ortho Drs. Only one was able to tell the diff between this and a Collateral-type injury. I could feel a slight clicking feeling when I went through the motions. It originated on top of the finger, at the knuckle. I opted not to get an MRI because I could feel what the injury was. I was fairly certain it was either a stress fracture (which would go away over time if I stayed off) or some scar tissue stuck in the joint. The collateral crosses over the top of the joint at that point. Im prone to those types of injuries.

I pretty much half crimp everything if that gives you an idea. Anyhow, I wouldnt notice that much swelling after climbing, just soreness at the site.

After 3 weeks, climbing 2-3 days inside and outside, the clicking feeling subsided, and the pain began to fade.

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

I've found that with finger injuries, the best course of action is to take 4-6 weeks off (assuming it's not broken). Icing helps.

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

I've been struggling with what I assume is a similar injury in a ring finger. Minor swelling around the joint, no sharp pain so much as a general soreness. I had a similar deal in my pinky some time ago and in a middle finger maybe 3 years ago, in all cases resting didnt seem to help, and I've simply climbed through. My ring finger is feeling good lately. As someone else mentioned, outdoor climbing doesnt seem to aggravate it as much and I've found that I can do hangboard workouts without any aggravation as well, I assume because of the controlled, static nature. I've always chalked it up to being a woosie and just pushed through.

RP thats one hell of a haircut you got going on, you develop a Dee Snider obsession lately?

Angel07ga · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

i have a theory that the pain (well my pain) is coming from unconscious straining from both climbing/other exercises and driving. im looking at the fact that the pain I have is in my left middle finger and that's the hand I use to maneuver my steering wheel. I think I am putting too much strain on the finger without even realizing its being strained.

Charles Leung · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

I've been having a similar problem on my right PIP for the past 4 years. The first time I injured it I think i was doing a crimpy gaston of some sort, and then I proceeded to climb on it 2 days later. My finger was really swollen and I took 6 months off. Lateral movement to the joint really hurt. I even had to start wiping my ass with my other hand because of the pain.
Since that incident, the pain comes and goes depending on how hard I'm climbing. Sometimes I find that if I climb hard crimpy things for a month or so both inside or out, that I will have to take 3-4 months off for the knuckle to return to normal. It will get swollen, full extension will be come difficult, lateral movement will cause pain, and there will be a click with opening my hand. After resting a couple months I can start over again until it hurts. It's been improving with each episode but still hasn't healed completely.
It's really a pain in the ass, and sometimes this injury keeps me from climbing cool stuff, like finger cracks at the creek.

Adam B · · CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 105

Sounds like osteoarthritis to me. Its inevitable with aging as far as I know. How old are all y'all? I have similar pain that comes and goes with bouldering. Middle knuckle, middle finger, point tenderness, hurts to extend fingers and press down on a flat surface.

Also, High dosage Non Steroidal Anti inflammatory Drugs (Ibuprofen, Naproxen sodium, etc) use/treatment for musculoskeletal injuries (sprains, strains, fractures, etc) has been shown to lengthen healing time and reduce healing efficacy according to several studies. These drugs tend to block a particular chemical that is important in the healing process. Light dosage for pain management seems to be less detrimental. Use ice, its less invasive and it works.

Also, Ive got this acupuncture finger massager that is awesome for increasing blood flow and dissipating swelling. Helps to massage out scar tissue as well. You can find it on Amazon. I also use this anti inflammatory cream called Traumeel that seems to work really well. Dunno about the effect it has on healing. Probably not great. Good luck!

Charles Leung · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Thanks Adam. I'll look for the acupuncture massager. With each re injury I've learned more and I think that's helping reduce the recovery time.
I've been doing NSAIDs when I know that there will be swelling, 800mg Ibuprofen. I've also started icing frequently. I even ice now after every climbing gym session. I even started wearing latex gloves in the ice bath so that my fingers don't get water logged. And then when there is pain I've been doing warm water baths and I've found that epsom salt helps.
I'm only 28 but I've been climbing for >10 years and I hope to be climbing for a lot longer. I think the best method is to take it easy and to take long breaks in between hard.

Tom-onator · · trollfreesociety · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 790
mountainproject.com/v/osteo…
Here's a post with many suggestions for treatment of osteoarthritis
I like the idea of the acupuncture massager though.
The cream I mentioned in the link above really does work for my condition ( Traumeel did very little) .
Money back satisfaction guaranteed!
Adam B · · CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 105

Tom-o I'll have to check that cream out. The traumeel seemed to provide acute (i.e., short term, immediate) relief. Can't speak to the long term treatment usage.

Charles - 800mg is definitely high dosage. It may provide a short fix, but will likely sacrifice long term healing. My fingers started hurt in the same way at 28. I'm 30 now. In the hard bouldering world, we are over the hill brother!

Rusty Bridges · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0
Adam Baxter wrote:Tom-o I'll have to check that cream out. The traumeel seemed to provide acute (i.e., short term, immediate) relief. Can't speak to the long term treatment usage. Charles - 800mg is definitely high dosage. It may provide a short fix, but will likely sacrifice long term healing. My fingers started hurt in the same way at 28. I'm 30 now. In the hard bouldering world, we are over the hill brother!
Hey, how did this turn out? I'm having a similar issue with the joints in my first two fingers.
Ryan Fejeran · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 0

I always have pain on top of my big knuckle on various fingers. The amount of pain on different varies from time to time. It hurts when I try pushing my fingertip to the large callus/pad of my hand above my palm. I'm thinking my fingers are unbalanced. My finger flexion muscles are bigger than my extension? Or it's a tendon issue... Did some digging on the internet:

med.unc.edu/surgery/plastic…

I will be resting and trying these exercises:

youtu.be/xt_G1lqd_kM

Will post findings/summary. Might be a month or so...

Shay Subramanian · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0
Morgan Patterson wrote: If you place your palm flat down on a table and push down with your middle finger flat against the table, do you get an awkward sensation/pain over the top of your knuckle on the lower portion? Well if you do PLEASE let me know what you figure out... I've been going on years with this and no specialist has been able to diagnose accurately. Also when it swells up slightly if I try to make a tight fist I get excruciatingly sharp pain in the top of said middle finger, like 9/10 screaming pain. When no swelling, no pain. Climb crimp above V7 i get swelling, awkwardness, and said pain. As a result I have become great at managing the problem never know what exactly it is...

7 years later...did you ever figure this out? This exact issue started for me a couple months ago, down to the tightened fist, except it's not 9/10 pain...yet. But I can't really tighten it the whole way without being severely uncomfortable.

It also started after a few months of not climbing at all, so that's pretty strange and makes me think it's an overuse thing.

michael sami · · providence · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

I have the same thing in my right middle finger, middle knuckle..i never felt or heard a pop, it just swells up a bit and feels sore after a day of climbing..im not really sure how to rehab it properly, ive only been climbing about 2 months not even, so i just wrap it and try to stay away from crimpy boulders or routes..if anyone has any idea on how i can rehab it and build strength in my finger id really appreciate it..

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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