Compact harnesses

I'm going to be doing some traveling. I currently have a Black Diamond Momentum DS harness. This harness is easily the most bulky object in my pack. I plan on just taking shoes, chalk bag, and harness. I want to replace this harness with a more lightweight and packable one.

I am looking at the BD Couloir. This thing packs down so small! I know this own't be the most comfortable harness out there, but I want to have something so I can hit gyms and hit some routes in the crags.

Any suggestions?

CAMP makes some minimalist harnesses (the ALP 95 is said to pack down to the size of a #11 hex), but good luck finding them in a store to try on.

They're expensive, but the arc teryx harnesses are pretty compact and very comfortable.

Lou C wrote:I'm going to be doing some traveling. I currently have a Black Diamond Momentum DS harness. This harness is easily the most bulky object in my pack. I plan on just taking shoes, chalk bag, and harness. I want to replace this harness with a more lightweight and packable one. I am looking at the BD Couloir. This thing packs down so small! I know this own't be the most comfortable harness out there, but I want to have something so I can hit gyms and hit some routes in the crags. Any suggestions?

Arcteryx harnesses are some of the lightest and more compact harnesses out there.

the BD couloir packs down super small - a bit larger than the size of your fist. i doubt there are many harnesses that pack smaller.

i use it for mountaineering and really like it due to its light weight and compactness. the lack of padding doesn't matter when you're wearing several layers. if you're gonna be hang-dogging a lot in shorts it'd probably be uncomfortable but if you're looking for a minimalist harness that's light and compact this is the one.

Edelrid Loopo Ligth

I have the couloir as well, and although it's small and light (and way cheaper than Arc'teryx!), it's a literal pain to hang in. The diaper design rides up and in pretty quickly. I'd suggest looking for something in a swami/leg loop style. Misty Mountain makes a number of 'program' harnesses that are all webbing but maintain the more comfortable design.

MadRock Mercury was a very light, small storage harness,and on their close out page for over a year.

Swami Belt. If you watch the trailer for Jeff Lowe's Metanoia, you'll see him whip onto a bowline around his waist (or maybe a swami, I don't actually recall).

Dead Birds, their without question the smallest pack-able harness on the market if you wanna pony up some dough.

John D wrote:They're expensive, but the arc teryx harnesses are pretty compact and very comfortable.

If money's a concern, the CAMP ALP 95 is only $49.

i have a Camp. packs really small. just enough material. not expensive. wouldn't want to do lots of hanging belays or load up with a full rack though.

There is another thread about this on the forum.

Also have one of the Camp harnesses, which I use solely for long alpine traverses which involve limited raps. I wouldn't use it for anything more than this; while light, it's flimsy. It's starting to fall apart after 4 routes (I only wore in during raps). I carry my Arcteryx when I need something light but substantial; my first one lasted several years of regular use.

Black Diamond Bod was my first harness, and I kept it around for alpine routes. Quite compact. Yeah, you'd want to limit your hanging belays, perhaps . . . .

fyi the dead bird is on sale at the ClYmb right now

black diamond flight.

dont use a coulouir for rock climbing. you will reget it.

BD Chaos is build in similar style to Arcteryx, though a little thicker. Rolls up nice into a small cylinder, and is super comfortable for both sport whippers and hanging belays

I've found the Petzl Hirundos to be a good compromise. I didn't like the Camp Air CR harness that I bought. Even after moving the gear loops, it really didn't fit very well. Camp sucks. The Hirundos is light, functional, comfortable enough, and packs small.

I really like my CAMP Air CR - super light, reasonably compact and it's got everything I want in a harness. I use it for everything - rock, ice, alpine, mixed... It's not the most comfortable harness for cragging (I have another harness for that sort of stuff), but it's way better than a couloir or bod - and lighter too. It's easily my favorite harness of all the ones I've owned. Even though Chris doesn't like it, I think it rocks. For sure worth a look.

I like the CAMP Blitz - 4 gear loops, a real belay loop (even with their non-twist feature) ice clipper slots, and it packs smaller, weighs less, and costs less than the BD couloir (or any of the Arc'teryx ones...)

harness

ClimberRunner wrote:I like the CAMP Blitz - 4 gear loops, a real belay loop (even with their non-twist feature) ice clipper slots, and it packs smaller, weighs less, and costs less than the BD couloir (or any of the Arc'teryx ones...)

The only advantage the Blitz has is four gear loops and depending on the climb the back two loops may not be used anyways. Otherwise, the Blitz in a large weighs the same and costs the same as a Couloir. The Couloir has a normal belay loop, four ice clipper slots, haul loop, comes with a small stuff sack, and folds down to the size of a Ti coffee cup (my harness is in my cup). You can argue the merits of the wider swami but hanging belays and whippers in the Blitz are going to suck.

If I need four real gear loops and the features of a full on harness then I'll bring a full featured harness and sacrifice a little weight and packability.

Couloir vs Element locker