start raining during lead
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Well I can tell ya that if it's on Astro-Dog and your one pitch below your gear at the two boulder bivy, your going to spend a night shivering and cuddling on an awful sized, and sloping, ledge. |
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Not sure how good in real life it will work but I have heard on slab like Whitehorse and the like a pair of socks inside out over your shoes will give ya a bit of traction in the rain. |
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"Yer gonna dry" amazing... Jim.Dangle... amazing. response of the week. |
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jim.dangle wrote:Yer gonna dry!Keep climbing. Or.... Downclimb. |
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Ryan Kempf wrote:Oh this is good. @ slim circa 2010 "stranger answer.... but yes, water does decrease a cam's holding power as it generally reduces the friction between the lobes and the surface of the crack. water in a sandstone crack is even worse, as it it decreases the strength of the sandstone." You are correct sir, but water is not a very good lubricant to decrease the friction coeficiant with. Now if it were raining KY.... My answer woulkd be different. Go aid climbing in the rain. You will find cams still work just fine.while i'm impressed with your thread stalking skills, i'm not sure what you mean by "oh this is good". you say this as if i am contradicting myself, which i am obviously not. my IT guy says you also googled "how do cams work". hope you learned something. but, apparently you aid climb in the rain, which is pretty hard core. |
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Just thought that old thread was funny slim, the KY quote came from there too. Your statements are consistent as well man, but trying to equate a slippery descent to the physics behind "how cams work" (damn IT guys see all) is kind of a stretch. The forces are nowhere near the same. Water may be enough to halt your free climbing endeavors for the day, but your gear should still work. I mean you may not want to take a winger on your top piece, but you should still be able to safely retreat or make upward progress depending on the situation. |
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but you have to admit, looking through that thread, the folks that have a good understanding of how cams work stated that water will decrease the cam's holding power. which is direct contrast with your original statement. which is why i called you out. |
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bearbreeder wrote:g if you arent climbing in the rain sometime in squamish, you arent climbing enough ;)Spent a month there last year - guess I didn't climb enough. |
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lucander wrote: Spent a month there last year - guess I didn't climb enough.no you didnt ... not if you only climbed during the dry season =P heres my partner going TO the crag a few weeks ago up here ... we climbed while it was snowing/hailing/raining ;) climbing |
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Bump-- Interesting thread. |