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> Mary's Bust Area
> Mary's Bust - main bu…
Out Of Time
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2 from 24
votes
Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crusty, Old Curmudgeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deceiver S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Mary S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Expeliarmus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Shadow S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Open Road, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | R.M. Wright, ShiAnn Zimmerman |
| Page Views: | 2,398 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Jul 17, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
OOT begins on easy terrain that gets harder and harder the higher you climb. P1 ticks in at 5.10 with a thin crux at 70 feet. It ends at double chains and is a good pitch by itself.
P1 has lots of good places to rest.
P2 is at least solid at 5.11 with two distinct cruxes and continuous burly moves for 40 feet getting off the belay. A tough mantle out of a shallow pod nets a good stance to launch the finish - which is much thinner and more devious than it looks.
Noto bene: P1 has two places where one can exit to the left. The lower of these puts you directly over the hard route behind the flake and avoids the crux of P1. The upper of these gains a belay stance for the route running up the deep water groove. The two pitches of OOT are largely vectorial, straight up. However, one can link P1 to the groove pitch for a very different style of climbing.
P1 has lots of good places to rest.
P2 is at least solid at 5.11 with two distinct cruxes and continuous burly moves for 40 feet getting off the belay. A tough mantle out of a shallow pod nets a good stance to launch the finish - which is much thinner and more devious than it looks.
Noto bene: P1 has two places where one can exit to the left. The lower of these puts you directly over the hard route behind the flake and avoids the crux of P1. The upper of these gains a belay stance for the route running up the deep water groove. The two pitches of OOT are largely vectorial, straight up. However, one can link P1 to the groove pitch for a very different style of climbing.
Location
This is 50 feet right of the flake growing out of the trail. Locate chains at 90 feet. The route is right of MJ and looks very easy in the start.
Protection
Fifteen draws will get P2, 12 for P1. If you are climbing through P1 to the chains, a sling just below the crux will prevent rope drag. A 60 meter rope is required for descent from both pitches. The top of P2 is a tad less than 200 feet off the deck. On the ground, pull the rope to the left to avoid the tree.
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