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self rescue kit (how does this sound?)

Original Post
photocodo mcclung · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined May 2012 · Points: 115

So I have been looking into building a small self rescue kit that I can hang on a locker from the back of my harness and just keep it with me while Im climbing. From using the search engine and seeing what other people are doing I have come up with the following.

Medium sized locker
tiblock
blade of some sort (small knife or razor blade slid or taped inside my helmet)
prussik

I already carry a prussik as a rappel back up but I think having a second would be nice. I have also seen people carrying a ropeman or just two prussiks. To me it seems that for efficient ascention of a fixed line you would need two devices (2 prussiks, 2 tiblocks, 2 ropemans etc). Escaping or tying off a belay would require a prussik or tiblock. I use trad/alpine draws so I always have single length slings with me and I usually carry at least one double length sling over my shoulder. To me this seems adequate but I wanted feed back to see if it sounds good to everyone else. I was also thinking about trying to include sometype of small head lamp or light in case we were on the rock till late, a pack would fix that but I dont always carry one. I am always researching and trying to practice on the rock but Im sure if I ever get into a situation that requires any type of rescue I will not have the ideal equipment with me, but I think with the equipment listed above I would have what I need to get me or my partner to the ground safely.

Thanks for the responses in advance

Photocodo

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

I carry an "Oh shit" locking carabiner with 2 prussiks, a small serrated blade, and a rap ring or maillon. I replaced my chalkbag waist belt with 9/16" supertape so I can tie up a spare runner if necessary, and inside the chalkbag there's a small zippered pocket where I have a tiny Bic lighter and a Petzl e-lite headlamp.

Kenan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 1,237

Sounds like a good plan.

FYI, a Gri-Gri and an ATC guide can both be used as rope ascension devices (note 1 strand only for Gri-Gri, 1 or 2 strands for ATC guide), in which case you'd only need one tiblock/prussik.

Brasky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

the petzel microtrax is an awsome tool an acender a ratchet

Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255

I carry a locker with some cord that I use for an autoblock (for raps) and I tie my chalk bag with another length of cord, so that means I've always got at least 2 pieces of cord and an extra locker to use in an emergency. I keep a tiny knife tied off to my chalkbag, and usually a double-length sling over my shoulder.

On multi-pitch, I'll carry 2 extra slings and 2-3 biners, one being a locker, which serve as extra emergency gear and do not get swapped with the rack. Headlamp usually gets girth hitched to the back of my harness.

Ryan Kempf · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 371

+1 for the emergency blanket. Ish will save your life. After being benighted without one in the valley I have one that never gets taken out of my multi-pitch pack.

Your kit sounds adequate. This has been stated already but your belay device will allow you to ascend a rope with one prussik (no tibloc necessary). I would replace the tibloc with a headlamp.
Depending on what you’re getting into and what you want to carry maybe think of some type of pain killer and suture kit.

randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

My kit that goes on every trad climb is:

micro trax
small prusik
20 ft 9/16" supertape webbing
trango pirana knife
maillion rapide

With the above I can ascend, build a very basic haul system, and make a bail anchor.

It is also good to know how to rig an alpine clutch (aka garda hitch) as it can be used as the lower rope grab while ascending or can be the main rope grab for a basic haul system. I have yet to use it in a real situation but it is good to know I can create a rope grab with two carabiners.

My kit does not include weather related clothes. I always carry a petzl eLite as my backup light or alone if I don't plan on needed one. Used it two weeks ago when doing El Cap Tree Route since we started late and were aiding too slow.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 674

No specific "kit". Just stuff I carry that has multiple uses.

1) Single edge razor blade taped inside my helmet

2) Tiny keychain LED clipped on my chalkbag

3) Long loop of 6mm cord as a chalkbag belt
For load releasable knot, Prusik or rap device extension/leash

4) Short loop of 6mm cord as nut pry leash
For Prusik or rap autoblock

5) Two double length tied runners over my shoulder
For rap tat, anchor building, rap device extension/leash

6) A couple of lockers that get used at anchors

7) Small headlamp in my pack

germsauce Epstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 55

And i never climb without:

weed and bowl
beer (in cozy to maintain coldness)
sweet tarts

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

This guy could help with your kits:

cbs.com/shows/macgyver/vide…

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Standard trad rack with two Cordelett's will get you out of any trouble you may find yourself in.....

All the other stuff is just fluff.....

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

learn to use what you have every day ...

because sooner or later youll find yourself with very little, no matter how you protest on how you "always" carry this or that ...

you should be able to get up and down anything, and do most basic rescue functions with a few slings and biners ...

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

Pretty much what the guys above me said. You don't need extra stuff, you already have lockers with our rack, you already can tie friction knots out of slings, you don't need a mallion because you have these things called carabiners etc. Knife is marginally useful. But if you want to bring extra stuff, go for it.

The most important piece of a rescue kit is a headlamp.

Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80

I carry one small locker with a Tibloc, SMC rap ring, tiny knife, and a short 6mm Prusik.

My last trip I ended up using the rap ring as a belay/rap device (I forgot my real device at home) and then the locker and Tibloc to rig a 2:1 haul to help my wife over a crux.

I know the Tibloc is an extra device that hardly ever get's used but being able to slap it on one-handed and getting the haul working quickly was key to getting her out of her stuck/frustrated situation. If I had to use a standard friction hitch I would have had to tie off the belay to get both hands free, rig the hitch/haul, then unblock the belay and haul, then reverse the process to get the hitch off for the rest of the climb... all time-consuming steps, so to me it's worth it.

BirminghamBen · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,620

To photocodo, as the above posts from wivanoff to David mention, the strategy of less being more has worked well for me when bailing off of big things in Western NC and beyond...

The rack will have a couple lockers in a variety of sizes, as well as slings with which to anchor. ATC Guide (in Guide mode or otherwise) plus some biners and some chord (foot prussic/rappel backup/haul prussic) will allow one to do a variety of ascension/hauling tricks. I'm likely to rap before ever getting into an unplanned hauling situation. Bail off of passive gear and sacrificed wiregates if necessary.

As far as dedicated gear, I find safety in the simplicity and added mobility of relying mostly on your rack. This, as opposed to carrying haul devices, ascenders, extra prussics, etc.

A small, sturdy pocket knife, Petzl Elite, and BIC lighter weigh less than 4 ounces. Couple with a well layered clothing system.

Light and fast.

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210
Ryan Kempf wrote:+1 for the emergency blanket. Ish will save your life. After being benighted without one in the valley I have one that never gets taken out of my multi-pitch pack.
A hat will do just as good and you can get them so light now that you can stuff it into the top part of your helmet above the suspension or in your pocket and not even know its there.
Rhett Burroughs · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 230
Br'er Rabbit wrote:Light and fast.
Speed is safety!!!
William Domhart · · Ventucky, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 5

The main piece in your kit should be your brain. Its a preventative and corrective action tool. Other than that, I have a tiny multi-tool, 2 prussiks and a locker. Goes with me on every climb. I've used all of them on multiple occasions. Adapt and overcome

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410
William Domhart wrote: I have a tiny multi-tool...
In case you find some screws that need tightening 5 pitches up? Or some wire that needs to be cut or maybe some leather that needs holes punched in it. Who hasn't been there, am I right?
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

why carry a prussik ? sling do almost as well and you already have them.

WFR course, second rope and some biners

William Domhart · · Ventucky, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 5

I use it to pick my nose while I'm figuring out if my gri-gri is rigged backwards, ;)
The scissors/knife combo is smaller and lighter than fingernail clippers. Never know when you need to clean tat or cut webbing for a rappel or bail. Each his/her own...
And I carry a prussik because its primary use is as my rappel back up.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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