Anyone know the oldest climbers to send hard routes?

I'm trying to find out the oldest person to ever send 5.13, and same for 5.12. I'm also interested in the oldest person to send those grades for the first time in their life.

Lee Sheftel did his first 5.14a @ 59 8-9 years ago. Of course there's Steve Hong, closing in on 60 & still climbs 5.14s. Are they old enough for you?

i watched jim donini walk a few .12 in the moab area last year.

Someone more motivated could find it, but there was an article in the past year about a 50+ man pushing into the 13's or 14's, it may have been Ondra's dad actually.

Novata Marino (Spain) climbed 5.14a at the age of 60.
climbingnarc.com/videos/60-…

Stevie Haston did his first 14d at the age of 52.

These are awesome! Thank you so much. I had no idea that people were doing 5.14s in their 50's -- that's extra-inspiring!

Obligatory shoutout to Chuck Odette goes here.

dpmclimbing.com/articles/vi…

The names and feats mentioned upstream have been highly publicized in the Anglo/American press the past few years. Less well publicized are the feats of some Eastrn Euros which are are likely on par. And if you want to get into the shakey game of comparing routes to boulders then what has been and is being done by some of the "elderly" at Bleau far surpasses the above.

I believe it was rock and ice that had a video of a 60+ year old guy who climbed 5.14d in Spain

Donini/Lowe at 70/69 are getting ready to attempt a NIAD (Nose in a Day) on El Cap in the immediate future.

I vaguely remember an old geezer (about 68) doing laps on Pump o'Rama (13a) in the arsenal a couple summers ago.

Id be more interested in what the oldest ascent of a v10 or harder. Seems like maintaining power like that would be really unusual.

Roger Briggs, nearly 70, still climbs huge, multipitch, scary .12s in the Black Canyon regularly.

Age aside, there are far, far more people who can climb 5.13 & 5.14 sport while only a handful of people in all of human history have ever had "fun" on 5.12s in the Black.

In the Eldo guidebook, Briggs at 66 climbed the Diving Board, an OWish 5.11. Word is he said it was much easier now than when he first did it in his 20's due to technique.

The "Old Geezer" mentioned is Herman Golner, he sent "Pump O Rama" again last year at I think 69, with two new knees. He will be in Rifle again this summer, probably still cranking.
So you know that geezer has put a lot of work in that canyon.

No one cares about older climbers. The mags say so. Only young climbers under 18 matter. If they are under 10, even better.

Never mind that their tendons repair instantly and they wiegh nothing. They prove they have an attention span longer than their peers, so they are stars.

I saw a video of some Spanish guy in his 60's sending 14b. Maybe it was this Novata Marino already mentioned.

David Sahalie wrote:No one cares about older climbers. The mags say so. Only young climbers under 18 matter. If they are under 10, even better. Never mind that their tendons repair instantly and they wiegh nothing. They prove they have an attention span longer than their peers, so they are stars.

Not really, I just don't have Ashima worship syndrome like everyone else at Hueco had this year.

David Sahalie wrote:Not really, I just don't have Ashima worship syndrome like everyone else at Hueco had this year.

Not sure if you consider 54 old, but Beat Kammerlander impresses the hell out of me.

Didn't Lynn Hill climb her first 5.14d at the age of 40? I know that's not old but she's the only woman mentioned in this thread and it was her FIRST 14d.

There are plenty of climbers all over France, Spain and the rest of Europe that climb 5.14 into their 50s and 60s. A more interesting question might be this:

What is the longest duration of time between two 5.14 sends by the same person? ie, who has been climbing 5.14 for the longest period of time?