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It's Only Entertainment
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 32
votes
Routes in The Spider's Web
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Arachne T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Widow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dacker Cracker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grand Hysteria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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It's Only Entertainment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Je Me Souviens T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Jelly Arms T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ku Klux Ken T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Lycanthropia, Her Way T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Normal Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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On the Edge of Oblivion T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b X |
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On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Pumpernickel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Retrograde T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Skeleton Key T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wheelin' N' Dealin' T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | 1988, Tim Beaman and Bill Dodd |
| Page Views: | 10,928 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Nov 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Hands down, this is THE most photogenic, and possibly the most celebrated single-pitch crack climb in all of the Adirondacks. One can comfortably sit on top of the boulder directly in front of the route and view the extremes (i.e. big whipper potential from the crux)of climber television, first hand.
Start out below the same ramp that leads up to the airy outside corner of Esthesia. Once established at the bottom of the corner, step around the arete to the face and sink your mitts into the perfect right-to-left rising crack. Continue jamming your way up the never-ending crack to the right side of the obvious traverse--the crux. This section alone clocks in at a pumpy 10c/d and can melt your endurance quick, so it's best to practice good conservation and efficiency here.
Place a couple of pieces before the traverse, rest on some good holds, then fire the 15 foot traverse, sans gear, to keep the pump at bay. Get to the end and place a critical yellow TCU or Alien high in the vertical crack then fire the remaining 15 feet of the route.
Start out below the same ramp that leads up to the airy outside corner of Esthesia. Once established at the bottom of the corner, step around the arete to the face and sink your mitts into the perfect right-to-left rising crack. Continue jamming your way up the never-ending crack to the right side of the obvious traverse--the crux. This section alone clocks in at a pumpy 10c/d and can melt your endurance quick, so it's best to practice good conservation and efficiency here.
Place a couple of pieces before the traverse, rest on some good holds, then fire the 15 foot traverse, sans gear, to keep the pump at bay. Get to the end and place a critical yellow TCU or Alien high in the vertical crack then fire the remaining 15 feet of the route.
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